# Allen & Emily > Our journey building a sustainable homestead. Public Ghost content for AI and LLM tooling. This file includes a bounded export of public pages first, then recent public posts. Append `.md` to any post or page URL to get the content in Markdown (for example, `/example-post.md`). ## Pages ### Who are Allen & Emily? URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/about/ Last updated: 2026-01-19T02:04:02.000Z It all began with a single beehive. Since then, we’ve expanded our small piece of Wisconsin into a hobby farm raising a variety of chickens, guinea fowl, pilgrim geese, coturnix quail, registered Icelandic sheep, and registered KuneKune pigs. We also enjoy foraging, gardening, hunting, fishing, and wildlife conservation. This site is where we share the behind-the-scenes of farm life: the joys, the laughs, the mistakes, and the hardships of running our little homestead. If you're curious about homesteading, or just like following along with the chaos, you're in the right place. ### **Stay in the Loop** Subscribe to get new posts delivered straight to your inbox. No algorithms, no guessing whether you missed something. Thanks for being here! ### Notification List & Sales Policy URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/notification-list-sales-policy/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T01:32:39.000Z Below is how the notification list process works if you choose to purchase a KuneKune Pig from us. 1\. **Join the notification list** - Join our free, no obligation piglet notification list. All pigs include: - DNA testing (except barrows) - USDA 840 ear tag - Certified Vet Inspection (as required by state law) - Vaccinated and dewormed 2\. **Piglets are born** - Litter notification is sent to AKKPS within a few days of the piglets being born. - Piglets are evaluated, photos taken, and any medications or vaccinations are administered. - People on the notification list are contacted via email. 3\. **Reserve your piglet or lamb** - Piglets can be reserved on a first response basis and $50 non-refundable deposit. - Deposits can be made via PayPal, Venmo, check, or we can send an invoice that you can pay via credit card. - Your piglet's DNA sample is sent to UC Davis for full registration (unless it's a barrow). The piglet will be ready for picker no sooner than 8 weeks old. - If you need transportation or delivery, we can help arrange that. The cost for transportation is the buyer's responsibility. We do allow pickup at our homestead or local delivery up to 50 miles free of charge. 4\. **Pick up your piglet or lamb** - Piglets are weaned at eight weeks old. - The rest of the cost of your piglet is due on pick-up or delivery day. - Bring a medium to large dog kennel to transport your piglet home. We recommend lining it with straw or a blanket. This is for the safety of your animal. Some pigs get car sick and can throw up and all pigs *will* use the bathroom during the trip. Bring a small water bowl and a gallon jug of water. - If you pick up your pig or lamb at our homestead, you will get to meet their parents, see our setup, and go over our care routine. We can also spend time answering any questions. Please Note: If you cannot pick up your piglet within one week of weaning, a boarding cost of $5 a day will be required unless agreed upon in advance. --- **Additional information:** Discounts are available if purchasing multiples pigs. All animals sold come with unlimited email/texting, mentorship, and they will always be welcomed back to our home if for whatever reason you are no longer able to take care of them. IMPORTANT: Our pigs come with a fertility guarantee. We stand behind our livestock genetics 100%. As long as good care and good faith attempts have been made at breeding, if they do not produce offspring, we will work with you on replacing or refunding your purchase. This includes gilts that are at least 18 months old and boars at least 12 months old. Prompt pickup or transport of reserved livestock is compulsory. Some boy pigs sold as pets or companion animals may be neutered before pickup at no charge to the buyer. Piglets do not get weened until 8 weeks old. No exceptions. Pigs require companions and do not thrive on their own. If you are only buying a single pig, you may be asked to provide evidence that you have companions waiting for them when they arrive at your home. We will also work with you on setting up a discount or packaged deal to include a companion. Any costs for moving sheep out of state, including Certified Vet Inspection (CVI), shall be paid by the buyer unless otherwise agreed upon. ### Available Pigs URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/available-pigs/ Last updated: 2026-06-21T02:32:58.000Z Welcome to our current selection of KuneKune pigs available for purchase. We are an [**AKKPS Exclusive Breeder**](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/br%5Fresults%5Fp.php?ref=allenandemily.com) and a member of the [**EKPA**](https://www.ekpa.org/?ref=allenandemily.com). We update this page regularly as pigs become available, so check back often or join our piglet notification list to be the first to know when new piglets arrive. [Sign Up for Piglet Notifications](#/portal/signup) If you see a pig you're interested in, simply click the **Learn more** button to send us an email. Before reaching out, please take a moment to review our [Notification List & Sales Policy](https://www.allenandemily.com/notification-list-sales-policy/) page for details on our reservation process and what to expect. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/IMG_8771-1.JPG) #### Waffles [Pedigree](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/a%5Finfo%5Fp.php?aid=57832&ref=allenandemily.com) Boar ****Sire: 2026 3 Pillars Showcase Grand Champion - 101** DOB: May 6, 2025 Price: $700 [Learn more](mailto:contact@allenandemily.com?subject=I%20am%20interested%20in%20Waffles) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/04/IMG_0580.jpeg) #### AKKPS 58052 [Pedigree](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/a%5Finfo%5Fp.php?aid=59064&ref=allenandemily.com) Gilt DOB: July 10, 2025 Price: $450 [Learn more](mailto:contact@allenandemily.com?subject=I%20am%20interested%20in%20AKKPS%2058052) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/04/IMG_0576.jpeg) #### AKKPS 56831 [Pedigree](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/members/a%5Finfo%5Fm.php?aid=57846&ref=allenandemily.com) Gilt ****Sire: 2026 3 Pillars Showcase Grand Champion - 101** DOB: May 20, 2025 Price: $450 [Learn more](mailto:contact@allenandemily.com?subject=I%20am%20interested%20in%20AKKPS%2056831) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/04/IMG_0611.jpeg) #### AKKPS 56832 [Pedigree](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/members/a%5Finfo%5Fm.php?aid=57847&ref=allenandemily.com) Gilt ****Sire: 2026 3 Pillars Showcase Grand Champion - 101** DOB: May 20, 2025 Price: $450 [Learn more](mailto:contact@allenandemily.com?subject=I%20am%20interested%20in%20AKKPS%2056832) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/04/IMG_0544.jpeg) #### AKKPS 56833 [Pedigree](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/members/a%5Finfo%5Fm.php?aid=57848&ref=allenandemily.com) Gilt ****Sire: 2026 3 Pillars Showcase Grand Champion - 101** DOB: May 20, 2025 Price: $450 [Learn more](mailto:contact@allenandemily.com?subject=I%20am%20interested%20in%20AKKPS%2056833) ### Welcome to Our Farm URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/welcome-to-our-farm/ Last updated: 2026-01-19T01:55:38.000Z _This page is for subscribers only._ ### (Untitled) URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/live/ Last updated: 2026-05-10T02:07:21.000Z _No content available._ ## Posts ### Preparing for Farrowing Day: Signs, Setup, and What to Expect URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/preparing-for-farrowing-day/ Last updated: 2026-03-02T16:05:10.000Z Farrowing day is one of the most exciting, and nerve-wracking, experiences in raising KuneKunes. After 116 days of waiting, you're about to meet the newest members of your herd. Whether this is your first litter or your tenth, proper preparation and knowing what to watch for can make the difference between a smooth delivery and a stressful one. Here's what we've learned from our farrowings and what we wish we'd known from the start. ## Know Your Due Date KuneKunes have a gestation period of approximately 116 days — the easy way to remember this is "3 months, 3 weeks, and 3 days." If you've been raising KuneKunes, you also know to usually add "and 3AM" since they never farrow at a convenient time. If you've been tracking heat cycles and know your breeding date, you can calculate your expected farrowing window. We have a farrowing calculator on our website if you want to skip the math. That said, sows don't read calendars. Some farrow a few days early, others a few days late. Use the due date as a guide, but watch your sow's physical signs as the real indicator. ## Signs That Farrowing Is Approaching As your sow gets closer to delivery, her body will give you clues. Here's what to watch for: **1-2 Weeks Out:** - Her belly drops noticeably — in the final days, it may look like it's nearly dragging on the ground - Udder development becomes more pronounced - Vulva begins to swell and relax - You should be able to observe babies kicking **24-48 Hours Out:** - Vulva becomes very loose and elongated, with visible wrinkling on the sides - Nesting behavior intensifies — she'll rearrange bedding, sometimes obsessively - Restlessness, getting up and down frequently - Loss of appetite (though some sows eat right up until labor) **Within 24 Hours:** - Milk can be expressed from the teats — if you get milk (or colostrum), farrowing is typically within 24 hours A note on checking for milk: while it's a useful indicator, we recommend not doing this repeatedly. Every time you express milk, you're potentially introducing bacteria into the teat canal, and you're also releasing colostrum that should go to the piglets. Check once to confirm she's close, then leave her be. ## Setting Up Your Farrowing Area Your farrowing setup doesn't need to be fancy, but it does need to be safe. Here's what we consider essential: ### Space A farrowing stall of at least 8x8 feet gives the sow room to move and farrow comfortably. The sow will be in this space with her piglets for around 8 weeks, so give them room to grow. ### Farrowing Rails (Crush Rails) These are non-negotiable for us. Farrowing rails are bars mounted around the inside perimeter of the stall, about 8-10 inches off the ground and 8-10 inches from the wall. They create a protected space where piglets can escape if the sow lies down. Without them, piglets can get crushed against the wall when mom shifts position. We've heard people say KuneKunes are careful mothers and don't need rails. Some are. Some aren't. The rails are cheap insurance. ### Creep Area A creep area is a section of the stall that piglets can access but the sow cannot — typically created with rails or boards about 10-12 inches off the ground. This serves several purposes: - Provides a safe warm zone away from the sow - Allows you to hang heat lamps lower (out of the sow's reach) - Gives you a place to offer piglet feed and water as they grow ### Heat Source Piglets need a 95°F environment for the first two weeks of life. They're born wet, with minimal body fat, and can become hypothermic quickly. We use heat lamps with extension cords since we don't have permanent electricity in our barn. **A critical word on heat lamp safety:** Heat lamps are a leading cause of barn fires. Secure them properly — not with the clamp alone, but with chains or wire so they can't fall into bedding if bumped. Keep them away from anything flammable. Check connections regularly. We've heard too many horror stories. The warmth isn't worth it if it burns down your barn. Some breeders use heated mats as an alternative. Whatever you choose, make sure piglets have access to warmth but can also move away from the heat source if they get too warm. ### Bedding Deep straw bedding — we're talking several inches to a foot or more — provides insulation, cushioning, and nesting material. The sow will rearrange it to her liking. Deep bedding also creates air pockets that can help a piglet survive if it gets laid on briefly. ### Cameras We keep cameras on our farrowing sows and check them frequently, especially in the first week. This lets us monitor without constantly disturbing the sow. The first few days are the most critical for piglet survival — being able to check in remotely means we catch problems early without adding stress. ## Supplies to Have on Hand Gather these before your sow is due: - **Clean towels** — for drying piglets and clearing airways - **Iodine (7%)** — for dipping umbilical cords - **Sharp scissors or umbilical clippers** — for trimming cords - **Umbilical clips** (optional) — we're planning to try these - **OB gloves (shoulder-length)** — in case you need to assist - **Lubricant** — for assisted delivery - **Oxytocin** — to stimulate contractions if needed (more on this below) - **Calcium source** — yogurt or Tums to support uterine contractions - **Molasses or corn syrup** — to boost the sow's blood sugar if labor is prolonged - **Heat lamp or heating pad** — already set up and tested - **Digital thermometer** — for checking piglet or sow temperature - **Notebook and pen** — for recording notes ## What to Expect During Farrowing Once labor begins, here's the general timeline: **Early Labor:** The sow will be restless, nesting, possibly vocalizing. This stage can last several hours. She may get up and down repeatedly, rearranging bedding. **Active Labor:** Once contractions become visible and regular, piglets typically start arriving. Most KuneKune litters are 4-6 piglets, though we've had as few as 3 and as many as 9\. Piglets are usually born every 20-60 minutes, with the entire process taking anywhere from 2-6 hours for most sows. **Between Piglets:** The sow may rest between deliveries — some even take short naps. This is normal. We generally wait about an hour between piglets before starting to worry. If it's been significantly longer than that and she's actively straining with no progress, it may be time to assess whether a piglet is stuck. **Placenta:** Pigs have a bicornuate uterus (two horns), so you may see two separate placentas — one from each horn — or they may pass as one mass. The afterbirth typically passes within one to four hours after the last piglet, though sometimes pieces pass during farrowing itself. The sow may eat it — this is normal behavior — but we recommend removing the placenta once it's passed so curious piglets don't attempt to eat it and choke. If placentas haven't passed within several hours of the last piglet, or if you suspect retained placenta, contact your vet. ## Assisting Piglets at Birth Our philosophy is to intervene when needed. Given the investment we have in our pigs — both financial and emotional — we'd rather be hands-on than lose a piglet to something preventable. That said, many KuneKune sows farrow without any assistance at all. Here's what we do: **Clear the Airways:** As each piglet is born, we towel off the "gunk" (amniotic fluid and membranes) and make sure the mouth and nose are clear. A piglet that can't breathe won't survive. **Trim and Dip the Umbilical Cord:** We trim the umbilical cord to about 2-3 inches and dip it in iodine to prevent infection. The cord will dry up and fall off within a few days. **A warning about umbilical cords:** Don't skip trimming. We learned this the hard way. We lost a piglet when the sow stepped on a long, untrimmed umbilical cord. When the piglet jerked away, it essentially pulled out its own intestines. It was devastating and entirely preventable. Trimming the cord to 2-3 inches removes this risk while still leaving enough length for proper healing. **Help Them Find a Teat:** Newborn piglets are wobbly and uncoordinated for the first 30 minutes or so. We'll gently guide them toward the udder if they're struggling to find it. Colostrum — the first milk — is ***critical***. Piglets need it within the first few hours of life, ideally within the first hour. It provides antibodies and energy they can't get any other way. ## When Things Don't Go Smoothly Most KuneKune farrowings are uncomplicated, but problems do happen. Here's what to watch for: ### Stuck Piglet If the sow has been actively straining for 30+ minutes with no progress, a piglet may be stuck in the birth canal. Signs include visible distress, repeated unproductive pushing, and sometimes a piglet visible at the vulva but not progressing. To check: 1. Wash the vulva area thoroughly 2. Put on a shoulder-length OB glove with plenty of lubricant 3. Gently insert your hand, cupping your fingers into a cone shape 4. Feel for a piglet and its position If you can reach a piglet, you may be able to gently reposition and guide it out. If you can't reach anything or the sow seems to be in serious distress, call your vet. **Important:** Do not give oxytocin if a piglet is stuck. Oxytocin stimulates uterine contractions — if there's an obstruction, stronger contractions will only cause more damage. Clear the obstruction first. ### Weak Contractions If the sow seems to have stalled — she's had some piglets but contractions have weakened and she's not progressing — calcium and oxytocin may help. Calcium (from yogurt or Tums) supports muscle contractions. Oxytocin directly stimulates the uterus. Only use oxytocin after confirming there's no obstruction, and follow dosing guidance from your vet. ### Exhausted Sow Long labors are hard work. If your sow seems depleted, a little molasses or corn syrup can help boost her blood sugar and energy. Make sure she has access to water. ### Cold or Weak Piglets Piglets that wander away from the sow or are born last in a large litter may become cold and weak. Get them under the heat lamp, dry them thoroughly, and once they're warm and active, help them get to a teat. Hypothermic piglets can't nurse effectively, so warmth comes first. ## The First Week The first 3-7 days are the highest-risk period for piglet mortality. Crushing, hypothermia, and failure to thrive are the main concerns. This is why we monitor closely with cameras and check frequently. Watch for: - Piglets nursing regularly (you'll see their bellies fill out) - Active, curious behavior - Even weight gain across the litter - The sow settling into a rhythm of nursing and resting A piglet that's constantly crying, always away from the group, or not gaining weight needs intervention — possibly supplemental feeding or a vet check. ## A Note on Overfeeding Before Farrowing One mistake we see new breeders make is increasing the sow's feed during pregnancy, thinking she needs extra nutrition for the piglets. With KuneKunes, this can backfire. Extra calories leads to bigger piglets. And bigger piglets are harder to deliver. Maintain your sow's normal ration through pregnancy. She'll need increased nutrition during lactation, not before. ## It's Worth It Farrowing can be stressful, especially your first time. But watching a sow bring new life into the world — and seeing the mom sing to her piglets — is one of the most rewarding experiences in raising KuneKunes. Prepare your space. Gather your supplies. Watch for the signs. And trust that thousands of years of pig instincts are on your side. --- Questions about farrowing or want to share your own experience? Drop them in the comments! ### Understanding COI: Why We Focus on Low Coefficient of Inbreeding URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/understanding-coi-kunekune-breeding/ Last updated: 2026-02-12T00:56:41.000Z If you've spent any time researching KuneKune breeders, you've probably seen "low COI" mentioned as a selling point. But what does COI actually mean, and how much should it factor into your breeding decisions? Here's our take — and why we think it's a useful tool, not a hard rule. ## What Is COI? COI stands for Coefficient of Inbreeding. It's a percentage that represents how genetically similar a pig's parents are to each other. The higher the COI, the more likely that pig is to inherit identical copies of genes from both sides of its pedigree. A COI of 0% would mean the parents share no common ancestors (practically impossible in a breed with limited foundation stock). A COI of 25% would be equivalent to a parent-offspring or full-sibling pairing. Most breeders aim to keep COI somewhere in the single digits, though what's considered "acceptable" varies widely. The calculation looks at a pig's pedigree over a set number of generations – typically 6 to 10\. The more generations you include, the more accurate (and usually higher) the number becomes. ## Why COI Matters – Sometimes High COI increases the chances of "inbreeding depression," which can show up as reduced fertility, weaker immune systems, smaller litter sizes, or other health issues. When both parents carry the same recessive genes, problems that might otherwise stay hidden can surface in their offspring. This is basic genetics, and it's real. We've seen it in other livestock breeds that were bottlenecked through small populations, and KuneKunes – having nearly gone extinct in the 1970s – are working from a relatively limited genetic base to begin with. So yes, COI is worth paying attention to. ## But Let's Keep Some Perspective Here's the thing: pigs in the wild don't know about COI. They don't consult pedigree databases before breeding. Feral pig populations have thrived for centuries without a registrar calculating coefficients. Nature selects for what works, and it's remarkably good at it. There's also an old joke in livestock breeding: it's called "line-breeding" when it works, and "inbreeding" when it doesn't. The only difference is the outcome. Breeders have used tight line-breeding for generations to lock in desirable traits – compact builds, specific colorations, calm temperaments. Sometimes it works beautifully. Sometimes it surfaces problems. The COI number alone doesn't tell you which you'll get. Many successful KuneKune breeders focus primarily on conformation and temperament, breeding the best to the best year after year, and they produce excellent pigs. They're not ignoring genetics – they're selecting for observable traits rather than optimizing a single metric. ## How We Use COI On our farm, we treat COI as one data point among many. When planning a pairing, we consider: - **Conformation**: Does this pairing make sense structurally? Will it improve or maintain breed standard? - **Temperament**: Are both parents calm, friendly, and easy to handle? - **Bloodline diversity**: Are we maintaining a variety of boar and sow lines? - **Health history**: Have the parents produced healthy litters? Any recurring issues? - **COI**: What's the projected coefficient, and are we comfortable with it? We generally aim to keep our litters under 10% COI calculated over 10 generations, but we don't treat that as a hard ceiling. A pairing at 12% with exceptional conformation and complementary [bloodlines](https://www.allenandemily.com/kunekune-bloodlines/) might make more sense than a 6% pairing that compromises on traits we care about. The goal isn't the lowest possible number – it's healthy pigs that meet breed standard and will thrive on their new farms. ## The Registry Factor One practical reason to pay attention to COI: registries track it, and buyers increasingly ask about it. If you're selling registered breeding stock, being able to speak to your COI philosophy – whatever it is – shows you're thinking about the long-term health of your program and the breed. This doesn't mean you need to chase single-digit COIs at all costs. It means you should understand what you're doing and why. ## Finding COI Information If you're registered with AKKPS, their online pedigree database can calculate COI for potential pairings. This makes it easy to experiment with different combinations before committing to a breeding. Here is an example using our pigs: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/coi_calculations.png) Can you tell who is related from this table? If you're buying piglets, don't hesitate to ask the breeder about COI. A good breeder will either know the number or be able to look it up. If they dismiss the question entirely or don't know what COI means, that might tell you something about their program. ## The Bottom Line COI is a tool for making informed breeding decisions. It's not a guarantee of health, and a low number doesn't automatically mean a better pig. Plenty of low-COI pigs have mediocre conformation, and plenty of higher-COI pigs are outstanding examples of the breed. Use the data. Consider the context. Breed thoughtfully. And remember – the pigs themselves couldn't care less about the math. They just want belly rubs and treats! --- Questions about COI or how we plan our pairings? Drop them in the comments! ### How Big Do KuneKune Pigs Get? URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/how-big-do-kunekune-pigs-get/ Last updated: 2026-01-29T01:20:14.000Z It's one of the most common questions we hear: "How big will my KuneKune get?" The answer matters, whether you're planning pasture space, building shelters, or just trying to understand what you're signing up for. Here's the honest answer, along with some context that will help you plan appropriately. ## The Short Answer Adult KuneKune pigs typically weigh: - **Sows (females):** 150-250 lbs, with some reaching 300+ lbs - **Boars (males):** 200-300 lbs, with some reaching 400+ lbs Height at the shoulder is generally 20-26 inches. These are ranges, not guarantees. Genetics, diet, and individual variation all play a role. The pig you bring home as a 10-pound piglet will grow into a substantial animal. ## They're Small *for Pigs* — Not Small KuneKunes are one of the smallest domestic pig breeds, but "small pig" is relative. A 200-pound animal is still a 200-pound animal. They're compact, not miniature. For comparison: - Commercial pig breeds (Yorkshire, Hampshire, Duroc) routinely reach 500-800 lbs - Large Black and Gloucestershire Old Spots can exceed 600 lbs - Potbellied pigs typically range from 100-200 lbs KuneKunes fall between potbellied pigs and full-sized heritage breeds. They're manageable for small farms and homesteads, but they're real livestock. ## There's No Such Thing as a "Mini" or "Micro" KuneKune Let's address this directly: if someone is selling you a "mini KuneKune" or "teacup KuneKune," be skeptical. These terms are marketing, not genetics. Some breeders select for smaller size, and there is natural variation in the breed — some bloodlines do run smaller. But there is no separate miniature variety of KuneKune. A piglet from small parents may stay on the smaller end of the range, or it may not. Some breeders achieve smaller pigs by underfeeding, which you can guess our position on that. If size is a major concern for your situation, ask the breeder about the size of the parents and grandparents. That's your best predictor. But plan for a pig that could reach 200+ pounds, because that's the reality of the breed. ## Growth Timeline: When Do They Reach Full Size? KuneKunes are slow-growing compared to commercial breeds. This is part of what makes them suitable for small-scale farming — they're not optimized for rapid weight gain. Here's a general timeline: **Birth:** 1-2 lbs **8-10 weeks (weaning):** 15-30 lbs **6 months:** 50-80 lbs **12 months:** 100-150 lbs **2 years:** 150-250 lbs **3-4 years:** Full adult size That last point is important: KuneKunes aren't fully mature until 3-4 years old. A pig that seems "small" at one year may have significant growing left to do. Don't assume you've got a small pig just because they're compact at 18 months. ## What Affects Size? Several factors influence how big an individual KuneKune will get: ### Genetics This is the biggest factor. Size tends to run in bloodlines. If both parents are on the larger end of the breed standard, expect larger offspring. If you're buying from a breeder, ask about the size of the parents and, if possible, grandparents. ### Sex Boars are typically larger than sows, often 25-50% heavier at maturity. If you're keeping pigs as pets or for a small homestead and want to minimize size, gilts (females) or barrows (castrated males) are your best bet. ### Diet Overfeeding will make a pig fat, not necessarily taller or longer, but definitely heavier. KuneKunes are lard pigs. They're genetically inclined to put on fat easily. A pig fed excessive grain or treats will end up obese, which causes health problems and can make them look much larger than a pig of the same frame in proper condition. Conversely, underfeeding won't keep a pig small. It will just result in a malnourished pig that eventually reaches its genetic potential anyway, just unhealthily. ### Age As noted above, KuneKunes continue growing until 3-4 years old. A "small" yearling may surprise you. Even runts of the litter typically catch up to their siblings given time and proper nutrition. A small piglet doesn't necessarily mean a small adult. ## Size vs. Condition: Know the Difference A common mistake is confusing an overweight pig with a large pig. KuneKunes should have a visible waist when viewed from above and you should be able to feel (but not see) their ribs. A pig that looks like a barrel with legs is probably overweight, not just big-boned. Proper body condition matters for health, breeding success, and longevity. If you're unsure whether your pig is the right weight, the EKPA publishes a helpful [body condition scoring chart](https://www.ekpa.org/s/KuneKune-Body-Scoring.pdf?ref=allenandemily.com) that shows what healthy KuneKunes should look like at various weights. ## Planning for Size When setting up for KuneKunes, plan for adult size, not piglet size: **Fencing:** Needs to contain a 200+ pound animal that's low to the ground. Two strands of electric at snout height (6" and 12") work well – remember pigs can't jump – or sturdy hog panels. **Shelter:** Should accommodate full-grown pigs lying down comfortably. A farrowing stall needs to be at least 8x8 feet; general shelters should give each adult pig room to not only lay down but also turn around. **Transport:** A large dog crate works for piglets; adults need a livestock trailer. **Handling:** You cannot pick up an adult KuneKune. Training them to move calmly with a sorting board or to follow a feed bucket is essential and easy to do. ## The Bottom Line KuneKunes are wonderful pigs — friendly, manageable, and well-suited for small farms. But they're not tiny. Plan for an animal that will weigh 150-300+ pounds at maturity, stand about two feet tall, and live 12-15 years on average — some up to 20. If that sounds like more pig than you bargained for, that's good information to have now, before you bring one home. If it sounds perfect, welcome to the club! --- Questions about KuneKune size or what to expect as your piglet grows? Drop them in the comments! ### The Best Grasses and Forage for KuneKune Pastures URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/best-grasses-forage-kunekune-pastures/ Last updated: 2026-01-22T03:34:49.000Z KuneKunes are grazing pigs — it's one of the breed's defining characteristics. Unlike commercial pig breeds that rely heavily on grain, KuneKunes can derive a significant portion of their nutrition from pasture. But not all pastures are created equal. The right mix of grasses, legumes, and forbs can reduce your feed bill, improve your pigs' health, and keep your land productive for years to come. Here's what we've learned about building and maintaining KuneKune pastures in Wisconsin, along with some principles that apply no matter where you're farming. ## Start With a Soil Test Before you plant anything, test your soil. This isn't optional, it's the foundation of everything else. A soil test tells you your pH, nutrient levels, and what amendments you need to create an environment where your forage will actually thrive. Contact your local County Extension office or Soil and Water Conservation District. Many offer free or low-cost testing. You'll get a report showing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and other key metrics, along with recommendations for lime or fertilizer if needed. Skipping this step is like building a house without checking the foundation. You can plant the best seed in the world, but if your soil pH is off or you're missing key nutrients, you'll be disappointed with the results. ## Our Go-To Forage: Clover and Ryegrass If we had to recommend just two things for a KuneKune pasture, it would be clover and ryegrass. Here's why: ### Clover Clover is a legume, which means it does something almost magical: it pulls nitrogen from the atmosphere and fixes it in the soil through its root nodules. This free fertilizer benefits everything else growing around it. White clover, red clover, alsike clover — they all work! White clover is particularly resilient and spreads well, filling in gaps and tolerating grazing pressure. Beyond the soil benefits, clover is highly palatable and nutritious for pigs. It's high in protein compared to grasses, which supports growth and overall health. ### Ryegrass Ryegrass (both annual and perennial varieties) establishes quickly, tolerates grazing well, and grows in a wide range of conditions. It's one of the most forgiving grasses you can plant. Perennial ryegrass comes back year after year; annual ryegrass germinates fast and can fill in bare spots quickly. The combination of clover and ryegrass gives you a resilient, self-improving pasture. The clover fixes nitrogen, the ryegrass provides bulk, and together they handle the wear and tear of pig traffic better than most alternatives. ## Other Grasses Worth Considering While clover and ryegrass are our foundation, diversity in your pasture is a good thing. Different plants peak at different times of the season, tolerate different conditions, and provide varied nutrition. Here are some other options: **Orchardgrass:** A cool-season bunch grass that establishes well, tolerates shade, and holds up to grazing. It's drought-tolerant once established and pairs well with clover. **Timothy:** A classic pasture and hay grass, winter-hardy and palatable. It's a bit slower to establish than ryegrass but persists well in northern climates. **Kentucky Bluegrass:** Does well in cooler regions and creates a dense sod. It's slower to establish but very persistent once it takes hold. **Fescue:** Hardy and drought-tolerant, but be careful here — some fescue varieties contain endophytes that can cause health issues in livestock. If you plant fescue, look for "endophyte-free" or "novel endophyte" varieties specifically bred for livestock pastures. ## Don't Forget the Legumes Beyond clover, other legumes can add value to your pasture: **Alfalfa:** High in protein and minerals, deep-rooted, and drought-tolerant. It's more demanding of soil conditions (needs good drainage and neutral to slightly alkaline pH) but worth it if your land supports it. **Birdsfoot Trefoil:** A non-bloating legume that tolerates poor drainage and acidic soils better than alfalfa. It's slower to establish but persistent. **Field Peas:** An annual option that adds nitrogen and provides forage. Good for overseeding or as part of a diverse mix. The beauty of legumes is that they feed your soil while feeding your pigs. That nitrogen fixation reduces your need for synthetic fertilizers and builds long-term soil health. ## Forbs Your Pigs Will Love Forbs are broad-leaved plants that aren't grasses or legumes. Some of what you might consider "weeds" are actually valuable forage: **Chicory:** Deep-rooted, drought-tolerant, and mineral-rich. Pigs love it, and it's often included in high-quality pasture mixes. **Plantain:** Not the banana — the leafy plant that grows in lawns everywhere. It's palatable, nutritious, and seems to show up on its own in most pastures. Don't fight it; your pigs will eat it. **Dandelions:** Another "weed" that's actually good forage. High in vitamins and minerals, and in our experience, pigs will graze them readily. KuneKunes seem to have good instincts about what to eat and what to avoid. They'll often seek out forbs and legumes preferentially when given access to diverse pasture. ## Plants to Avoid: Toxic Species While pigs generally avoid plants that taste bitter or toxic, it's still important to know what's dangerous and remove it from your pastures if present. Here are the main concerns: **Highly Toxic (can be fatal):** - Bracken fern - Hemlock (poison hemlock and water hemlock) - Foxglove - Deadly nightshade - Rhododendron and azalea - Laburnum - Ragwort - Jimsonweed **Potentially Harmful:** - Rhubarb leaves - Raw kidney beans or lima beans - Cherry, peach, or apricot leaves (contain compounds that can release cyanide) - Elder leaves Walk your pastures and fence lines, especially when setting up a new area. Remove or fence off any toxic plants before introducing your pigs. Most pigs will avoid these plants naturally, but why take the chance? ## Establishing and Maintaining Pastures ### When to Plant In northern climates like ours, you have two main windows: **Spring:** Plant after the last frost when soil temperatures are consistently above 50°F. This gives cool-season grasses and legumes time to establish before summer heat. We use [GreenCast](https://www.greencastonline.com/tools/soil-temperature?ref=allenandemily.com) to help us determine soil temperatures in our area. **Late Summer/Early Fall:** Often the best time for perennial pasture establishment. Less weed competition, more consistent moisture, and plants have time to develop root systems before winter. ### Seeding Methods **Broadcast seeding:** The simplest approach. Spread seed by hand or with a broadcast spreader, then lightly rake or drag to ensure seed-to-soil contact. Works best on prepared seedbeds or thin existing pastures. **Frost seeding:** Scatter seed on frozen ground in late winter. As the ground goes through freeze-thaw cycles, the seed works its way into the soil. This is a great low-effort way to introduce clover into existing pastures. **Overseeding:** After rotating pigs through a paddock, seed any bare or thin spots. The disturbance from pig traffic often creates good conditions for seed establishment. ### Maintaining Healthy Pastures **Don't overgraze:** This is the biggest mistake people make. Pigs should graze pastures down, then move to a new area while the grazed section recovers. We'll cover rotational grazing in detail in a future article, but the basic principle is: graze, move, rest, repeat. **Overseed regularly:** After rotating pigs out of a paddock, assess the condition. If you see bare spots or thin areas, throw down some seed. Frost seeding clover in late winter is an easy annual habit that keeps pastures productive. **Manage soil fertility:** Periodic soil tests (every 2-3 years) help you stay ahead of nutrient depletion. Your pigs will deposit a lot of nutrients back through manure, but distribution isn't always even. **Control problem plants:** Some weeds are fine (see forbs above), but aggressive invaders or toxic plants should be managed. Mowing, hand-pulling, or targeted grazing can help. ## Seasonal Considerations In climates with real winters, like Wisconsin, you're managing for a growing season, not year-round grazing. Here's how we think about it: **Spring through Fall:** Active grazing season. Rotate pigs through paddocks, allowing recovery time between grazing periods. **Winter:** Pastures are dormant under snow. Pigs need hay supplementation to replace the forage they'd normally get from grazing. We feed good quality grass hay and increase their pelleted feed slightly to account for the calories they burn staying warm. The goal during the growing season is to build healthy, diverse pastures that will bounce back strong each spring. Good pasture management in summer pays dividends when the snow melts. ## A Note on Silvopasture We integrate trees into our pig pastures, a practice called silvopasture. Fruit trees, nut trees, and hardwoods provide shade, windbreaks, and supplemental food (windfall fruit, acorns in moderation, etc.). Our pigs love it, and the trees benefit from the natural fertilization and pest control the pigs provide. 💡 Silvopasture is a longer-term commitment than simple pasture establishment, but we think it's worth it. We'll share more about our experiences in a future article! ## The Bottom Line KuneKunes thrive on pasture, and good pasture starts with good planning. Test your soil, plant a diverse mix anchored by clover and ryegrass, remove toxic plants, and manage grazing pressure so your land can recover. You don't need a perfect pasture to raise healthy pigs. KuneKunes are adaptable and will make the most of what you give them. But investing in your forage pays off in reduced feed costs, healthier animals, and land that improves over time. Your pasture is a long-term asset. Treat it that way. --- Questions about pasture establishment or what's working on your farm? Drop them in the comments! ### KuneKune Farrowing Calculator URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/kunekune-farrowing-calculator/ Last updated: 2026-06-13T01:37:11.000Z Planning for piglets? Use our farrowing calculator to determine your KuneKune sow's expected due date and track important milestones throughout her pregnancy. Just enter the breeding date or the due date you want to target to get started! #### The 3-3-3 Rule Pigs have a gestation period of **3 months, 3 weeks, and 3 days** (approximately 116 days). KuneKunes typically farrow between days 114–116. I know the breeding date I have a target due date Enter when breeding occurred to calculate the expected farrowing date. Breeding Date Sow Name (optional) Calculate Due Date Expected Farrowing Date #### Key Milestones 🖨️ Print 📋 Copy ↺ Reset #### Planning Your First Litter? Check out our registered KuneKune breeding stock from our AKKPS exclusive program. [View Available Pigs →](https://www.allenandemily.com/available-pigs/) --- **Understanding KuneKune Gestation** KuneKune gestation follows the easy-to-remember "3-3-3 rule" – 3 months, 3 weeks, and 3 days, or approximately 116 days. In our experience, first-time mothers (gilts) often follow their own schedules, sometimes delivering a day or two early or late, while experienced sows often go right on schedule. Around day 100, start watching for subtle changes. Your sow may become more restless or start testing out nesting spots. By day 107, she should be settled in her farrowing area with plenty of clean bedding. The final days bring more obvious signs: a swollen vulva, milk letdown, and that telltale nesting urgency where she just can't get the bedding arranged quite right. Most KuneKune litters range from 4 to 8 piglets, though first-time gilts often have smaller litters. Having your dates mapped out ahead of time means you can be prepared with supplies, arrange your schedule for those critical first 24 hours, and know exactly when you'll start losing sleep! If you're new to farrowing, our guide to [bringing home your first KuneKune](https://www.allenandemily.com/bringing-home-your-first-kunekune-the-first-30-days/) covers the basics of pig care, and our [breeding age guide](https://www.allenandemily.com/from-gilt-to-sow-the-ideal-age-to-start-breeding-kunekunes/) can help you decide when your gilt is truly ready for her first litter. ### Bringing Home Your First KuneKune: The First 30 Days URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/bringing-home-your-first-kunekune-the-first-30-days/ Last updated: 2026-01-15T04:24:29.000Z Congratulations! You've done your research, found a reputable breeder, and you're about to bring home your first KuneKune pig. Whether you're adding a pair of pets to your backyard or starting a small breeding program, the first month sets the foundation for your pig's health, happiness, and trust in you. Here's what to expect and how to set yourself up for success. ## Before They Arrive: Preparation Checklist The work begins before your pig ever sets foot on your property. Taking time to prepare properly will make the transition smoother for both you and your new KuneKune. ### Secure Fencing KuneKunes are generally not escape artists, but a stressed pig in a new environment may test boundaries. We recommend one of two approaches: a combination of sturdy, permanent perimeter fencing with at least two strands of electric wire at snout level (approximately 6 and 12 inches off the ground) or using an entirely electric fencing, anything in the 10/24 range with primarily 2" spacing like [Premier1's HogNet](https://www.premier1supplies.com/p/hognet-hogbloc-10-24-12-electric-netting?ref=allenandemily.com). 💡 Note: with piglets you'll want 2" spacing, anything larger and the electric zap may make them charge forward and through the net. Make sure to walk your entire fence line and check for gaps, loose posts, or areas where a determined pig could push through. Remember: it's far easier to reinforce fencing before your pig arrives than to chase one down the road. ### Shelter Your KuneKune needs a dry, draft-free shelter with adequate bedding. This doesn't need to be elaborate. A three-sided shelter with a roof works well in many climates. The shelter should be large enough for your pig(s) to lie down comfortably and turn around. For bedding, we use straw, which provides insulation and gives pigs something to nest in. Avoid hay as primary bedding; while they'll eat it, it compacts quickly and doesn't provide the same insulation as straw. ### Water and Feed Setup Pigs are strong and will tip over lightweight containers. Invest in heavy rubber feed pans or secure your feeders to prevent them from being flipped. For water, we recommend automatic waterers or heavy troughs that can't be easily overturned. In Wisconsin winters, we use heated waterers to prevent freezing. Make sure water is always available. Pigs drink a surprising amount, especially lactating sows or pigs in hot weather. ### Establish a Veterinary Relationship Before your pig arrives, identify a veterinarian in your area who is comfortable treating pigs. Not all large animal vets have experience with KuneKunes, and it's better to establish this relationship now rather than scrambling during an emergency. Ask your breeder for recommendations – they may know vets in your region who work with heritage pigs. ### Stock Your Medicine Cabinet We recommend having a few essentials on hand: a digital thermometer (the cheap ones from the dollar store work fine), some kind of injectable antibiotic, needles, syringes, a [slap-shot](https://www.valleyvet.com/ct%5Fdetail.html?pgguid=30e07ab9-7b6a-11d5-a192-00b0d0204ae5&ref=allenandemily.com), and children's Tylenol for pain management. Having these basics ready means you can respond quickly if your new pig shows signs of illness or injury. ## Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions ### The Transport Transport is stressful for pigs. Whether you're picking up your KuneKune or having them delivered, expect them to be anxious upon arrival. A dog crate or livestock trailer works well for transport. Line the bottom with straw for comfort and traction, and avoid feeding them a large meal right before travel to minimize carsickness. ### Unloading When you arrive home, back up to their enclosure if possible and let them walk directly into their new space. Don't chase or rush them. Open the crate, step back, and let them explore at their own pace. Some pigs will trot right out; others may take time to build up the courage. Patience here sets the tone for your relationship. ### The First Few Hours Once unloaded, give your pig space. Resist the urge to pet, hold, or fuss over them immediately. While keeping a watchful eye on them, let them explore their shelter, find the water, and settle in. You can sit quietly nearby so they get used to your presence, but don't force interaction. Offer a small amount of feed once they've had time to calm down. Eating is a sign they're starting to relax. ## Week 1: Building Trust The first week is all about establishing routine and building trust. Your pig is learning that you are the source of food, comfort, and safety. ### Establish a Feeding Routine KuneKunes thrive on consistency. Feed at the same times each day – we do morning and late afternoon. This predictability helps your pig feel secure and gives you regular opportunities for interaction. Use feeding time to talk to your pig, letting them associate your voice with good things. ### Slow and Low When approaching your new KuneKune, move slowly and stay low. Pigs are prey animals and a tall figure looming over them can be intimidating. Crouch or sit near them. Speak softly. Let them approach you rather than reaching for them. A pig that comes to you willingly is a pig that trusts you. ### Watch for Signs of Stress or Illness Monitor your pig closely during this first week. Healthy signs include good appetite, normal feces (firm but not hard), clear eyes, and increasing curiosity about their surroundings. Warning signs include refusing food for more than 24 hours, diarrhea, lethargy, coughing, or discharge from eyes or nose. If something seems off, take their temperature. A normal KuneKune temperature ranges from 101°F to 102.5°F. Anything above 103°F warrants a call to your vet. ### Quarantine Considerations If you have existing pigs, keep your new arrival separate for up to 30 days (ideally). This quarantine period protects your herd from any illness the new pig might be carrying, even if they appear healthy. Diseases can have incubation periods, and a pig that looks fine on arrival day may develop symptoms a week later. Use separate boots, clothes, and equipment when caring for quarantined pigs. ## Weeks 2-3: Deepening the Bond By now, your pig should be settling in. They know the routine, they're eating well, and they're starting to show their personality. This is when the real relationship-building begins. ### Belly Rubs and Physical Contact Once your pig is comfortable approaching you, you can start introducing touch. KuneKunes famously love belly rubs. It's one of the breed's most endearing traits! Start by scratching behind their ears or along their sides. When they flop over for a belly rub, you'll know you've earned their trust. This physical contact isn't just bonding; it also gets them used to being handled, which makes health checks, hoof trims, and vet visits much easier down the road. ### Handling Practice Start touching their feet, looking in their ears, and gently lifting their tail. These might seem like strange things to practice, but you're preparing for the day you need to trim hooves, check for ear mites, or take a temperature. A pig that's accustomed to being handled is far easier to care for than one that panics at every touch. ### Introduce Treats Strategically Treats are powerful training tools, but use them wisely. Our pigs love bananas, squash, and frozen coconut cream cubes in summer. Use treats to reward coming when called, standing calmly for handling, or entering a specific area. Be careful not to overdo it! KuneKunes are lard pigs and gain weight easily. Treats should supplement their diet, not replace proper nutrition. ## Week 4: Assessing and Planning Ahead By the end of the first month, you should have a good sense of your pig's personality, health status, and needs. This is a natural checkpoint to evaluate how things are going. ### Health Check Take stock of your pig's overall condition. Are they maintaining healthy weight? Is their coat in good condition? Are they active and curious? If you haven't already, now is a good time to schedule a wellness visit with your vet and discuss a vaccination and deworming schedule appropriate for your region and situation. ### Pasture Assessment Look at your pasture or yard. How is the grass holding up? KuneKunes are lighter on pastures than many pig breeds, but they still have an impact. If you're seeing bare patches or excessive rooting, consider rotational grazing or expanding their space. Planning ahead prevents overgrazing and keeps your land healthy. ### Integration Planning If you've been quarantining your new pig from existing animals, the 30-day mark is typically when you can begin introductions. Do this gradually. Start with fence-line contact where they can see and smell each other without physical interaction. Watch for signs of aggression and be prepared to separate them if needed. Most KuneKunes are social and integrate well, but every pig is an individual. ## Common First-Month Mistakes We've made our share of mistakes over the years and have learned from talking with other KuneKune owners. Here are some common pitfalls to avoid: **Overfeeding:** New pig parents often want to spoil their pigs with food. KuneKunes are efficient grazers and don't need as much supplemental feed as you might think, especially if they have good pasture. Overfeeding leads to obesity, which causes joint problems and can complicate breeding. **Rushing the Relationship:** It's tempting to pick up and cuddle your new pig, but forcing affection can backfire. Let trust develop naturally. A pig that chooses to seek you out is more bonded than one that tolerates being held. **Inadequate Fencing:** Every escape story starts with "I thought the fence was good enough." Test your electric fence, check for gaps, and remember that a stressed pig will find weaknesses you didn't know existed. **Skipping Quarantine:** If you have other pigs, quarantine should not be considered optional – it's essential biosecurity. Thirty days feels like a long time, but it's nothing compared to dealing with a disease outbreak in your entire herd. **No Vet Relationship:** Don't wait for an emergency to find a vet. By then, you're panicked, your pig is sick, and you're cold-calling clinics hoping someone can help. Establish care before you need it. ## Looking Ahead The first 30 days are just the beginning. As you continue your journey with KuneKunes, you'll learn their individual quirks, preferences, and personalities. You'll develop routines that work for your farm and your pigs. You'll probably make some mistakes along the way – we certainly have – and you'll learn from them. The most important thing is that you've taken the time to prepare, you're paying attention to your pig's needs, and you're building a relationship based on trust and routine. KuneKunes are remarkable animals: friendly, intelligent, and genuinely enjoyable to raise. Give them the care they deserve, and they'll reward you many times over. If you have questions as you navigate this first month, don't hesitate to reach out to your breeder. A good breeder wants to see their pigs thrive and is happy to offer guidance. There are also great, free resources available from the [AKKPS](https://americankunekunepigsociety.org/education/?ref=allenandemily.com) and [EKPA](https://www.ekpa.org/resources?ref=allenandemily.com). --- Have questions? Drop them in the comments! ### Pardon Our Dust URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/coming-soon/ Last updated: 2026-02-01T00:43:12.000Z If you've noticed a few things look different around here lately, or maybe stumbled across a broken link, thanks for bearing with us! We've been busy behind the scenes migrating to a new platform, and while we're tidying up the last few loose ends, we wanted to give you a quick update. **Why the Change?** We've switched over to Ghost, an open-source publishing platform that aligns with how we like to do things: straightforward, transparent, and focused on what matters. Ghost lets us spend less time wrestling with website headaches and more time doing what we actually love and sharing the journey with you. **Get Updates Straight to Your Inbox** One of the things we're most excited about is making it easier for you to stay connected. Instead of hoping you catch our latest post, you can now subscribe and get new content delivered directly to your inbox. No spam, just farm updates, behind-the-scenes stories, and the occasional announcement when we have something to share. If that sounds good to you, just click the subscribe button at the bottom, enter your email address, and you're all set! Thanks for sticking with us. We've got plenty more to share, and we're glad you're along for the ride. ### 2026 Farrowing Plans! URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/2026-farrowing-plans/ Last updated: 2026-07-26T12:28:43.000Z Farrowing in 2025 was a year of mixed results. We had successful litters from several of our proven sows, but we also faced fertility challenges with Gus that prevented some of our planned pairings from coming to fruition. Every challenge was a lesson and we are looking forward to applying what we have learned to be even more successful with our 2026 plans. We are taking a different approach this year. We have tried historically proven methods to increase Gus's fertility chances, so we are giving him first opportunity with all four of our sows: Cookie, Pumpkin, Olive, and Mocha. If successful, we're looking at spring litters throughout April and May. However, if Gus's challenges persist, we have backup pairings planned that maintain strong genetic diversity. We will also be maintaining our **AKKPS Exclusive Breeder** status. 💡 We regularly update this page with confirmed breeding dates and expected farrowing dates so check back frequently! Last update: July 5, 2026 If you are interested in getting a KuneKune from us in 2026, please check out our [Notification List & Sales Policy](https://www.allenandemily.com/notification-list-sales-policy/) and join our free, no obligation, piglet notification list by clicking the button below. [Sign Up for Piglet Notifications](#/portal/signup) ### Breeding Updates **Gus + Pumpkin (Tutanekai x Rona)** Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI):4.4127% Breeding date: January 15, 2026 ✅ Heat cycle check: February 4th - 6th ✅ Preg-tone check: February 15th ✅ Anticipated farrowing date: May 10, 2026 ✅ Results: 4 boys 🎉 **Waffles + Olive (Mahia Love x Momona)** Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI):3.1833% Breeding date: February 6, 2026 ✅ Heat cycle check: February 27th - March 1st ✅ Preg-tone check: March 8th ✅ Anticipated farrowing date: June 2, 2026 ✅ Results: 3 girls, 1 boy 🎉 **Capicola + Cookie (Whakanui x Rona)** Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI): 3.0803% Breeding date: February 8, 2026 ✅ Heat cycle check: February 1st - March 3rd ✅ Preg-tone check: March 10th ✅ Anticipated farrowing date: June 5, 2026 ✅ Results: 5 boys, 2 girls 🎉 **Meatball + Kimchi (BH Tutaki x Tapeka)** Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI): 3.2170% Breeding date: March 27, 2026 ✅ Heat cycle check: April 16th - 18th ✅ Preg-tone check: April 27th ✅ Anticipated farrowing date: July 20, 2026 ✅ Results: 1 boy, 4 girls 🎉 **Waffles + Mocha (Mahia Love x Momona)** Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI):3.1833% Breeding date: March 27, 2026 ✅ Heat cycle check: April 16th - 18th ✅ Preg-tone check: April 27th ✅ Anticipated farrowing date: July 21, 2026 ✅ Results: 2 boys, 4 girls 🎉 --- Thank you to all of our customers, friends, family, and anyone that tuned into our [farrowing livestreams on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@allenandemily?ref=allenandemily.com) in 2025\. Your support means the world to us! ### Review: Chickcozy Solar Automatic Chicken Coop Door URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/review-chickcozy-solar-automatic-chicken-coop-door/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T18:13:45.000Z After running the Chickcozy Solar Automatic Chicken Coop Door for a few months, I can confidently say this is **by far my favorite automatic door** on the market. Their second-generation design addresses virtually every pain point that traditional automatic chicken doors present, while introducing innovative features that make chicken keeping more convenient and worry-free than ever. #### **Why This Door Stands Out** **Solar-Powered Freedom:** The biggest game-changer is the solar power system. Chickcozy claims a one day charge will last for a week, ensuring uninterrupted operation even during extended, unfavorable conditions. The built-in 3200mAh rechargeable battery (comparable to an iPhone's capacity) means you'll never again face the frustration of dead batteries leaving your chickens vulnerable. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/1_7_ceece5de-85b9-4c83-9406-c6535a84318b-jpg-format-original.jpg) **No-Track Design:** One of my favorite features is the complete absence of tracks or grooves. The upgraded bottom design doesn’t collect dirt, sand, or debris. It's perfect for any coop flooring — wood shavings, straw, sand, or dirt — and built to handle all kinds of messy backyard environments. If you've ever dealt with doors getting jammed by debris in tracks, you'll appreciate this upgrade. No more cleaning stuck mechanisms or dealing with doors that won't close because of accumulated bedding material. **Whisper-Quiet Operation:** Having only ever used metal automatic doors up to this point, the noise difference is absolutely striking. On quiet fall days while hunting, I could hear our metal, gear-driven chicken door opening or closing from 30 acres away. The Chickcozy door operates so quietly that you have to be standing near it to even notice it's functioning. This eliminates the stress on chickens caused by sudden mechanical noises and ensures you won't disturb neighbors which is especially important in suburban settings. #### **Advanced Engineering Features** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/20250401-190926-jpeg-format-original.jpg) **Predator-Proof Security:** Security is where this door truly excels. Once the door closes, it self-locks, creating an impenetrable barrier. Most automatic chicken doors slide up and down. The center-out horizontal opening design is unique and provides superior protection against raccoons, foxes, and other persistent predators. **Safety First:** The built-in safety touch sensor on the right door panel remains, ensuring reliable anti-pinch protection. This anti-pinch technology provides peace of mind that your birds won't be injured if they're in the doorway when it closes. **Smart Light Sensor Technology:** The smart light sensor eliminates the guesswork of timing. Opens at dawn, closes at dusk—no need to set timers! The split control box design also allows for you to install the door and light sensor in the ideal location on your coop. #### **Built to Last** **Premium Materials:** Made from Automotive Industry Standard Material - ASA. The door's overall thickness has increased by 220% compared to the previous version—stronger and sturdier than ever. The automotive-grade ASA material addresses my main concern about plastic fading in harsh sunlight. While only time will tell how well it holds up aesthetically, ASA is specifically designed for automotive applications where UV resistance is critical. **Weather-Resistant Design:** The fully sealed motor and waterproof connectors ensure the door remains unaffected by rain or humidity. Whether it's a downpour or a humid day, the Chickcozy door operates seamlessly, providing continuous protection for your chickens. The weatherproof construction means year-round reliability regardless of conditions. **Installation and Setup:** Installation was straightforward and took just minutes. The door fits virtually any coop design, and the split control box design makes positioning and adjustment much more user-friendly than traditional setups. No external wiring or electrical connections are needed—just mount the door, position the solar panel, and you're ready to go. ### **Value Proposition** The competitive pricing, especially considering the advanced features, makes this an excellent investment for any chicken keeper. No ongoing battery replacement costs, no electrical installation requirements, and the robust construction means this door should provide years of reliable service. ### **Minor Considerations** ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/1_12_7a0d9aca-7bca-413d-a0fa-6c954bb05a95-jpeg-format-original.jpg) If you own anything made by Chickcozy, you know their recognizable bright orange and brown color pallet. My only lingering concern is potential color fading from prolonged winter weather or sun exposure, though this would be purely aesthetic and wouldn't affect functionality. The automotive-grade ASA material should significantly mitigate this concern compared to standard plastics used by cheaper products from other vendors. ### **Final Verdict** The Chickcozy Solar Automatic Chicken Coop Door represents a significant move forward in automatic chicken doors. The combination of solar power, whisper-quiet operation, predator-proof security, and debris-resistant design makes this the most practical and reliable option available. For chicken keepers who value convenience, security, and long-term reliability, this door is an outstanding investment that will pay dividends in peace of mind and hassle-free operation. **Cons:** - Potential for aesthetic color fading over time (minimal impact on function) - Higher upfront cost than basic models (offset by long-term savings) **Pros:** - Solar-powered with week-long battery life - Whisper-quiet operation - No-track design prevents debris jams - Superior predator protection - Easy installation and adjustment - Automotive-grade materials - Smart light sensor automation For anyone serious about protecting their flock while minimizing daily maintenance, the Chickcozy Solar Automatic Chicken Coop Door is simply the best option available today. Get 5% off your entire order at Chickcozy using the code “allenandemily” at checkout or by clicking this link: [https://chickcozy.com/allenandemily](https://chickcozy.com/allenandemily?ref=allenandemily.com) --- **Disclaimer**: It's important to note that the unit used for our review was provided by Chickcozy. Nevertheless, it's crucial to emphasize that the thoughts and opinions shared in our assessment are entirely our own, and Chickcozy has had no input or editorial review in shaping our perspective. This transparency ensures an unbiased and authentic evaluation of the product based solely on our experiences and observations. ### Can KuneKune Pigs Cohabitate with Other Livestock? URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/can-kunekune-pigs-cohabitate-with-other-livestock/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T03:01:38.000Z As KuneKune pigs continue to grow in popularity on small farms and homesteads, many owners wonder whether they can cohabitate safely and effectively with other livestock. Their friendly temperament and grazing habits make them potential candidates for mixed-species living, but careful planning is required. This article explores the benefits, challenges, and considerations of integrating KuneKunes with other animals. #### The Nature of KuneKune Pigs KuneKunes are known for their ability to thrive on pasture. Unlike some pig breeds, they are less aggressive and more sociable. Their docile nature allows them to coexist peacefully with other animals, provided that their space, dietary needs, and natural instincts are properly managed. However, they still exhibit natural pig behaviors such as rooting, food guarding, and occasional assertiveness, which require careful attention. Additionally, their curiosity and strong appetites can sometimes lead to conflicts with other animals, particularly when resources are limited. Hormonal changes can also significantly impact their behavior, making monitoring and proper management essential. Ensuring a well-structured environment with sufficient space, separate feeding areas, and appropriate enrichment can help mitigate potential issues and foster a harmonious mixed-species setting. #### Potential Livestock Companions Here are some common livestock that KuneKunes might share space with, along with the benefits and challenges of each: 1. **Sheep and Goats** - *Benefits:* KuneKunes help manage pasture by eating weeds and foraging alongside sheep and goats. Their calm demeanor generally complements these animals. - *Challenges:* Competition for food resources can arise, especially if pasture is limited. Additionally, rooting behavior may disturb grazing patterns. 2. **Cattle** - *Benefits:* KuneKunes can coexist with cattle in large pastures, benefiting from leftover feed and hay. - *Challenges:* The size difference poses a risk of accidental injury, and competition for resources may leave KuneKunes without sufficient nutrition. 3. **Poultry** - *Benefits:* Chickens, ducks, and other poultry can thrive alongside KuneKunes. The pigs’ rooting may uncover bugs and grubs for poultry to forage. - *Challenges:* Pigs may consume poultry feed, leading to dietary imbalances, and poultry might peck at pig feed, necessitating strategic feeding solutions. 4. **Horses** - *Benefits:* In large spaces, KuneKunes can coexist with horses, scavenging leftover hay. - *Challenges:* Horses may be wary or aggressive towards pigs, making close monitoring essential to prevent conflicts. ![ Cookie - AKKPS 34277 - Allen & Emily Rona 1 meeting an Icelandic Sheep! ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/img_1878-format-original.jpg) Cookie (AKKPS 34277) meeting an Icelandic Sheep! #### Key Considerations for Cohabitation 1. **Space Requirements** Adequate space is crucial to minimize competition and stress. Overcrowding can lead to aggression, food hoarding, and potential injuries. 2. **Feeding Strategies** Each species has unique dietary needs. Ensuring KuneKunes have access to their own feed without interference is critical. Separate feeding areas or schedules can prevent conflicts. 3. **Fencing and Shelter** Secure fencing is essential to prevent escape and interference with other livestock. Each species should have suitable shelter tailored to their needs. 4. **Health and Biosecurity** Different species carry unique diseases and parasites. Regular veterinary care, vaccinations, and deworming are crucial to maintaining overall herd health. 5. **Behavioral Monitoring** Observing interactions, especially during initial integration, is key. Watch for signs of stress, aggression, or bullying, and separate animals if necessary. Additional monitoring is important during high-hormone periods, such as breeding seasons. #### Personal Experience On our farm, we’ve chosen not to allow our KuneKunes to cohabitate with other animals. Managing feed separation and parasite control would be more work than whatever benefits would be gained by our animals living together. Additionally, we encountered an unsettling incident when moving a pregnant sow to her farrowing pen. An inquisitive Icelandic sheep, a horned breed, approached and bumped the sow. Though minor, the incident highlighted potential risks. While the sow was unharmed, the thought of potential harm to an unborn piglet reinforced our decision to keep them separate. #### Pros and Cons of Cohabitation **Pros:** - Efficient use of space and resources. - Improved pasture management through complementary grazing behaviors. - Opportunities for symbiotic relationships, such as pest control. **Cons:** - Risk of dietary imbalances or competition for resources. - Potential for injuries or stress, especially if species are incompatible. - Increased complexity in management and biosecurity. #### Conclusion KuneKune pigs can cohabitate with other livestock under the right conditions. Whether or not they should, is up to you, and careful planning and management is essential. By considering the specific needs and behaviors of KuneKunes and their potential companions, fostering a harmonious and productive environment for all animals involved is possible but not without its risks. ### Keeping Water from Freezing for KuneKune Pigs: Tips and Tricks URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/keeping-water-from-freezing-for-kunekune-pigs-tips-and-tricks/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T18:19:44.000Z As temperatures drop, ensuring that your KuneKune pigs have access to fresh, unfrozen water is essential for their health and well-being. KuneKunes are hardy pigs, but they still require proper care during the colder months, and water access must be one of your top priorities. Below are some practical methods to keep your pigs’ water from freezing, allowing you to maintain their hydration and overall health throughout the winter. #### 1\. Use Heated Water Bowls One of the most efficient ways to prevent water from freezing is by using heated water bowls. These devices have built-in heating elements that keep the water at a constant temperature above freezing. When choosing a heated bowl, ensure that it is: - Durable and safe for use with pigs. - Equipped with a chew-resistant cord that is preferably inaccessible to pigs. - Large enough to meet the daily water needs of your pigs. #### 2\. Insulated Water Containers Insulating your water containers can greatly slow down the freezing process. Positioning containers between hay bales or inside old, used tires filled with hay or foam insulation can be an effective way of maintaining water temperatures for longer periods of time. Situating water containers in a sheltered location, such as inside a pig shelter or barn, offers additional protection against wind and extreme cold, slowing down the freezing process. #### 3\. Add Warm Water Regularly ![ Rubber pans can be flipped and stomped on to break up ice without damaging the pan! ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/14752-format-original.jpg) Rubber pans can be flipped and stomped on to break up ice without damaging the pan! Pouring warm water into your pigs' water supply multiple times a day can help delay freezing. While this method requires more frequent attention, it can be a practical solution in the absence of heated water devices. Using a larger container can also help retain heat for longer periods. It is also recommended to use black rubber tubs over plastic ones. If water freezes, black rubber pans can be turned upside down and stomped on to dislodge the ice. Plastic tubs become brittle in colder temperatures. #### 4\. Floating Objects in the Water Placing a floating object, such as a small plastic ball, in the water can help reduce ice formation. The movement of the object, propelled by wind or the pigs’ interactions, helps to keep the surface from freezing over. This method is more effective in milder winter climates. #### 5\. Install a Frost-Free Hydration System Frost-free waterers, such as those designed for livestock, use underground pipes and valves to prevent water from freezing. These systems provide a reliable, low-maintenance solution for ensuring a consistent water supply. While the initial installation cost may be higher, it’s a worthwhile investment for farms in extremely cold regions. #### 6\. Water heaters Electric water heaters come in a variety of shapes and sizes, including submersible and floating models. They are a flexible and effective option for keeping water from freezing. Check your local farm supply store to explore available types suited for livestock. Additionally, RV owners often use similar devices to prevent septic tanks from freezing, so those products can also be worth investigating. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/deicer1-jpeg-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/deicer3-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/deicer2-format-original-2.jpg) Deicers come in all different shapes and applications. #### 7\. Consider Diet Adjustments Feeding your pigs warm or soaked feed during colder months can help supplement their hydration. Warm water added to their feed can provide additional moisture while encouraging them to consume more water indirectly. ### Our Solution Living in Wisconsin, we often face extremely cold temperatures—sometimes reaching as low as 40 degrees below zero Fahrenheit. Over the years, we have experimented with various methods to prevent water from freezing. The most effective solution we've found is using a black polytank with a built-in hog waterer, complemented by a stock tank heater for the main water supply and a bird bath heater for the drinking area. To further enhance efficiency, we add a piece of foam insulation board on top, cut to size, to minimize evaporation. Finally, pairing this system with an inline thermometer that regulates when the unit turns on and off ensures we only use electricity when needed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/behlen-100-gallon-rigid-poly-hog-waterer-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/deicer2-format-original-1-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/bird_bath_heater-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/thermocube-format-original-1.jpg) ### Final Thoughts Keeping water from freezing for KuneKune pigs during winter requires careful planning and consistent monitoring. Regardless of what method you choose, it’s essential to check the water supply multiple times a day to ensure it remains unfrozen and clean while removing any ice that forms to help keep the water accessible. Whether you opt for heated waterers or simpler methods such as adding warm water or insulating containers, the ultimate goal is to provide your pigs with a continuous supply of fresh water. Proper hydration is crucial for their health, comfort, and productivity throughout the colder months. ### Understanding and Minimizing Rooting Behavior URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/understanding-and-minimizing-rooting-behavior/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T18:27:14.000Z KuneKune pigs are a unique and increasingly popular breed known for their friendly demeanor, small size, and charming personalities. Originally from New Zealand, these pigs were traditionally raised by the indigenous Māori people and are now cherished as companion animals and sustainable livestock all over the world. Despite their many appealing traits, one common challenge faced by KuneKune pig owners is managing their rooting behavior. Understanding why pigs root and implementing strategies to minimize it can help you reach your goals while reducing unwanted pasture or lawn damage. #### Why Do Pigs Root? ![ Cookie (AKKPS 34277) showing off her dirty face! ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/img_1619-format-original.jpg) Cookie (AKKPS 34277) showing off her dirty face! It's a common misconception that KuneKunes don't root. This is simply not true. Sure, some do it more than others, and some may not do it at all. However, rooting is a natural behavior of all pig breeds. They use their strong snouts to dig into the soil in search of food such as roots, insects, and other tasty treats. Rooting also serves as an outlet for their natural curiosity and intelligence, offering them the chance to explore their environment and engage in problem-solving. Physically, it provides exercise that helps strengthen their snouts and neck muscles, contributing to overall fitness. This behavior mimics the challenges they would encounter in the wild, making it an essential part of their well-being when managed appropriately. However, this behavior can be problematic for owners who wish to maintain a well-kept lawn or avoid damage to specific areas of their property. KuneKunes are generally less prone to rooting than other pig breeds due to their preference for grazing and their shorter, upturned snouts, which are less suited for deep digging. Unlike wild pigs and breeds typically associated with commercial production that often display more intense rooting behaviors, KuneKunes have adapted to thrive on grazing. This grazing-focused behavior aligns with their anatomy and reduces the necessity to root extensively for food. Thriving on a diet rich in grasses and vegetation satisfies their innate grazing instincts, reducing the likelihood of rooting in search of supplemental food. Nonetheless, some individuals may still root, especially if their dietary, environmental, or enrichment needs are not fully met. #### Strategies to Minimize Rooting If rooting behavior becomes an issue, there are several steps you can take to minimize or prevent it while still ensuring your KuneKune pigs are happy and healthy. 1. **Provide Ample Grazing Opportunities** - KuneKune pigs are natural grazers. Ensuring they have access to a lush pasture with plenty of grass can significantly reduce their desire to root. Rotational grazing can help maintain healthy regrowth and prevent overgrazing. This involves dividing your pasture into smaller sections and allowing your pigs to graze one section at a time while the other sections recover. It also helps to reduce the risk of bare patches that might encourage rooting, especially after rain. 2. **Offer a Balanced Diet** - A well-balanced diet is essential to curb rooting caused by hunger or nutritional deficiencies. Supplement their grazing with high-quality pig feed, fresh vegetables, and occasional fruits. Avoid overfeeding, as obesity can lead to health problems in KuneKunes. 3. **Use Rooting Deterrents** - Some owners use physical deterrents, such as nose rings, to discourage rooting. While this method can be effective in reducing unwanted rooting, it is not a fool-proof method of prevention. It also discourages a natural instinct, which may be stressful to your pigs. Using nose rings is not something we recommend or practice on our farm and it’s essential to consult a veterinarian before considering this option and explore less invasive alternatives first. 4. **Provide Enrichment Activities** - Rooting is often a sign of boredom or lack of stimulation. Enrichment activities, such as puzzle feeders, treat-dispensing toys, or hidden snacks, can keep your pigs engaged and reduce their desire to root. 5. **Designate a Rooting Area** - If rooting is unavoidable, consider designating a specific area where your pigs are allowed to root freely. This approach satisfies their natural instincts while protecting the rest of your property. 6. **Monitor and Address Stressors** - Stress can trigger or exacerbate rooting behavior. Ensure your pigs have adequate shelter, companionship, and protection from predators. A calm and secure environment can reduce stress-related rooting. 7. **Provide a Wallow and Shade** - Pigs may root to find relief from the hot sun, as the ground can feel cooler and, when wet, provides a natural wallow. To curb this behavior, you can create a designated wallow in a location of your choice and ensure they have ample shade to escape the heat. These measures not only reduce rooting but also promote their comfort and well-being during warm weather. #### Additional Notes and Observations Based on our experience raising KuneKunes, we've noticed that younger pigs tend to root more frequently, so there's a chance some pigs will grow out of this behavior. It's also worth noting that the type of grass and pasture you provide could be another factor to managing rooting behavior. Some grasses and forbs contain higher concentrations of carbohydrates (sugar) in their roots, making them especially attractive to pigs once discovered. These sugar levels can increase significantly after overnight frost cycles, which may lead to seasonal spikes in rooting behavior. To manage this, you might provide alternative enrichment activities during frost-prone periods, such as scattering hay or using treat-filled toys to redirect their energy. Additionally, you can turn rooting into an advantage. For example, we’ve successfully utilized smaller groups of pigs to prepare land for gardening, eliminating the need for manual ground-breaking, tilling, or fertilizing. ![ Pigs breaking ground on a new flower garden. ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/b67cf6b0-ebe5-418a-b4fc-c3749b9e67d9-jpg-format-original.jpg) Pigs breaking ground on a new flower garden. #### Conclusion KuneKune pigs possess so many wonderful traits, but managing their rooting behavior can be challenging at times. By better understanding this instinctive behavior and implementing practical strategies, you can ensure your pigs remain healthy and happy while reducing unwanted rooting—or even turn it into a benefit. Success comes when you find the perfect balance between addressing undesirable behaviors while enhancing the overall well-being of your KuneKunes. ### KuneKune Bloodlines URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/kunekune-bloodlines/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T18:29:55.000Z If you're reading this, you likely already love the KuneKune breed like we do—you appreciate their unique, amazing personalities and the benefits they bring to any homestead—or you're looking to learn more about them. Imagine a world without these charming pigs. This scenario almost became a reality in the 1970s when KuneKune pigs came dangerously close to extinction. The population had dwindled to just around 50 individuals, found mainly on small rural farms and in Maori communities in New Zealand. Without concerted efforts, this unique breed was at risk of disappearing entirely. The rescue of the KuneKunes owes much to Michael Willis and John Simister, two wildlife park owners who recognized the pigs' historical and genetic importance. They acquired a few of the remaining pigs, bred them carefully, and began a preservation effort. Through their dedication, the KuneKunes started to rebound, with the population gradually growing as awareness of the breed’s charming temperament and grazing abilities spread. The pigs were introduced to the UK in the 1990s and later to the U.S., where they have become popular with hobby farmers and enthusiasts. Today, thanks to the efforts of various breed associations, like the [American KuneKune Pig Society (AKKPS)](https://americankunekunepigsociety.org/?ref=allenandemily.com) and [Empire KuneKune Pig Association (EKPA)](https://www.ekpa.org/?ref=allenandemily.com), which have worked tirelessly to promote responsible breeding practices, provide educational resources, and maintain breed registries, these pigs are thriving once more. The introduction of KuneKunes to the U.S. has preserved their genetic diversity, and the specific boar and sow lines have become foundational to the thriving KuneKune community in North America. While they are no longer endangered, maintaining a healthy, genetically diverse population free of crossbreeding is still important. Registries and [breeding programs](https://www.allenandemily.com/from-gilt-to-sow-the-ideal-age-to-start-breeding-kunekunes/) ensure this progress continues by tracking lineage and minimizing inbreeding. While KuneKunes have come a long way, they still rely on careful stewardship to secure their future! ### Boar Bloodlines: The Foundation of U.S. KuneKunes KuneKune boar lines serve as the genetic backbone of the breed in the U.S., with eleven primary lines imported into the country over a span of several years. Each boar line has its own distinct history, traits, and origin, with some arriving from New Zealand and others from England. Here is a closer look at the boar lines that shaped KuneKune pigs in the United States: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/img_7597-jpeg-format-original.jpg) 1. Boris (Imported in 1995 from New Zealand). 2. Tonganui (Imported in 1995 from New Zealand) 3. Wairua (imported from New Zealand in 1995)\* 4. Andrew (Imported in 2005 from England) 5. ***Te Whangi (Imported in 2005 from England)*** 6. ***Mahia Love (Imported in 2010 from New Zealand)*** 7. ***Tutanekai (Imported in 2010 from New Zealand)*** 8. Tuahuru (Imported in 2010 from New Zealand) 9. ***Whakanui (Imported in 2010 from New Zealand)*** 10. ***Tutaki (Imported in 2010 from England)*** 11. ***Ru (Imported in 2011 from England)*** 12. ***BH Tutaki (Imported in 2011 from England)*** ***Bold and italics*** indicates a bloodline we have at our farm. ### Sow Bloodlines: The Mothers of U.S. KuneKunes Sow lines are just as important in preserving the health and traits of KuneKune pigs. With 16 original sow lines (14 of which are still present today), these sows form the backbone of KuneKune breeding programs across the country. Each sow line adds its own unique attributes, from excellent mothering skills to friendly personalities. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/img_9385-jpg-format-original.jpg) 1. Wilsons Gina (Imported in 1995 from New Zealand) 2. ***Rona (Imported in 1995 from New Zealand)*** 3. Jenny (Imported in 2005 from England) 4. Trish (imported from the UK in 2005)\*\* 5. ***Rebecca Gina (Imported in 2010 from England)*** 6. Haunene (Imported in 2010 from New Zealand) 7. ***Momona (Imported in 2010 from New Zealand)*** 8. ***Tapeka (Imported in 2010 from New Zealand)*** 9. Tarutaru (Imported in 2010 from New Zealand) 10. ***Aria Giana (Imported in 2010 from New Zealand)*** 11. Manuhiri (Imported in 2010 from New Zealand)\*\*\* 12. Kereopa (Imported in 2010 from England) 13. BH Rebecca Gina (Imported in 2011 from England) 14. Awakino (Imported in 2011 from England) 15. Trish (Imported in 2011 from England) 16. Sally (Imported in 2011 from England) ***Bold and italics*** indicates a bloodline we have at our farm. ### The Importance of Bloodlines Bloodlines play a critical role in maintaining the health and diversity of the KuneKune breed in the United States. The careful importation of boar and sow lines from New Zealand and England has ensured that KuneKune pigs retain the best of their genetics, including their calm and friendly temperament, excellent grazing abilities, and strong maternal instincts. This is why it is also crucial to only buy registered stock if your goal is to help preserve this breed. Without registration, there is no way to confirm you are purchasing a purebred KuneKune. Even if a breeder has KuneKune pigs from registered parents, there is no guarantee without a DNA parentage test and the related paperwork that the piglets are from that specific pairing. Wild pigs can breed with domestic pigs, and instances of unintended fence breeding have been well-documented. Crossbreeding not only harms the preservation of this wonderful breed but also risks damaging its reputation if customers receive pigs that do not exhibit typical KuneKune traits. ### What’s next? The rich history of KuneKune bloodlines in the United States is a testament to the dedication of breeders who sought to preserve this unique breed. Through the careful selection of boar and sow lines from New Zealand and England, KuneKunes have flourished in the U.S., becoming a beloved breed known for their gentle nature, hardy build, and ability to thrive in a variety of environments. In recent years, the population of KuneKunes has rebounded so well that many farms and homesteads raise them for their [delicious and nutrient dense meat](https://www.allenandemily.com/pasture-raised-kunekune-pork-nutritional-benefits/). Having recently completed the [KuneKune Pork Producers Association's (KPPA)](https://www.ekpa.org/about-1?ref=allenandemily.com) mentorship program, this is a benefit I'm hoping to share with our customers in the near future. Whether you are breeding for meat, companionship, or show, understanding the history and genetics of these bloodlines is key to ensuring the continued success of this remarkable breed. To learn more and take part in the conservation on KuneKunes, please consider joining the AKKPS as your registry and the EKPA for on-going education and opportunities to connect with other KuneKune enthusiasts. --- \* Produced very few offspring so no longer available \*\* Never produced offspring \*\*\* Died shortly after quarantine ### Review: Chickcozy Egg Incubator URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/review-chickcozy-egg-incubator/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T21:24:46.000Z The history of incubators can be traced back to ancient civilizations, with some of the earliest documented usage found in Egypt around 750 BC. Despite the passage of centuries, the core principle of incubation remained largely unchanged: creating a controlled, warm environment for optimal egg hatching. More than two millennia later, in 1749, a French innovator developed the first mechanical incubator. Although new technologies have since refined the process, the basic concept—a small, enclosed space maintaining stable, warm temperatures—has stayed consistent. Over the years, incubators have evolved dramatically, incorporating features like automatic egg turners, built-in candlers, and countdown clocks. However, not all of these innovations are essential for beginners, and some may be over-complicated or poorly implemented. The Chickcozy Egg Incubator, introduced in February 2024, excels by learning from all of these lessons and simplifying the egg-hatching process. Its intuitive design and user-friendly features make it an excellent choice for both novices and seasoned hobbyists alike. ### Why Choose the Chickcozy Egg Incubator? Let’s get straight to the point: if you're new to hatching, you won't find a more user-friendly incubator than the Chickcozy Egg Incubator. Whether you’re a small-scale hobbyist hatching eggs for yourself, friends, or family or you're searching for a high-quality tabletop incubator under $150, look no further. Want to know why the Chickcozy Egg Incubator is the best option for your hatching needs? Keep reading to discover its standout features and benefits! ### Key Features of the Chickcozy Egg Incubator **Thermometer Holder**: Most incubators, including this one, have a temperature display, but our golden rule is to *trust but verify*. We always recommend using an independent thermometer, especially when getting to know a new unit. Unlike other models, the Chickcozy Egg Incubator has a convenient holder that fits perfectly without sacrificing space. We use and recommend the Govee Hygrometer Thermometer H5075 ($12), which fits like it was made for this incubator. If you don't use a thermometer, the holder can be removed. In our tests, the built-in thermometer was only 1 degree off, and humidity was 3% off. **Seamless Lid Alignment**: While it may not seem like a major feature, it’s a noticeable advantage. Many incubators with a domed design, like two other popular units on the market, require you to carefully align small notches for the lid to sit properly on the base. If the alignment is off, you risk losing heat and humidity. The Chickcozy Egg Incubator, however, is designed with a seamless lid that eliminates the need for precise alignment, ensuring a secure fit every time and maintaining optimal conditions effortlessly. **Handle on the Cover**: You might be surprised to learn that this feature makes a real difference! Many incubators with a similar domed design can be tricky to open, especially when you’re trying to check on eggs or wrangle chicks while minimizing heat and humidity loss. The Chickcozy’s handle allows for easy one-handed removal of the lid. **25 Egg Capacity**: This feature is straightforward. You know if you need a 25-egg capacity or not, but the price point is tough to beat even if you typically hatch eggs below this capacity. **Non-Slip Mat**: I was initially skeptical about this feature, as many incubators say they come with flooring designed to prevent splay leg in baby chicks, yet often utilize hard plastic mats that fail to provide adequate grip. The Chickcozy Egg Incubator, however, stands out with its rubber flooring, which offers a non-slip surface for better traction. Throughout our entire 2024 hatching season using this incubator, none of the chicks experienced leg development issues. Unfortunately, I can't say the same for chicks that hatched under the same exact circumstances in other incubators. **Auto Egg Turner**: This feature is arguably the most essential for any modern incubator. With an auto egg turner, the process of incubating becomes significantly easier, eliminating the need to manually turn each egg daily and risking heat and humidity loss by opening the unit. The auto egg turner on the Chickcozy Egg Incubator efficiently rotates your eggs multiple times a day, ensuring consistent development. What sets this unit apart is that the motor responsible for turning the rails is enclosed, making it easier to clean the unit compared to other incubators with exposed motorized turners. **Chick-Safe Enclosure (2-inch wall)**: The 2-inch chick-safe enclosure is another valuable feature, designed to keep newly hatched chicks secure anytime you need to open the lid. **Cleaning**: The Chickcozy is undoubtedly the easiest incubator to clean on the market. Its all-plastic design features smart modular components that can be easily disassembled, allowing for thorough cleaning without hassle. This convenience not only saves you time but also helps maintain a hygienic environment for your eggs. ### Key Feedback **Status Light**: This feature can be viewed as both a pro and a con. The Chickcozy is remarkably quiet and emits no light, which makes it difficult to determine from across the room whether the unit is on. I would personally appreciate having a status light that allows for a quick glance to check if the incubator is operating, turned off, or running below the desired temperature. This simple addition would provide peace of mind, ensuring you can easily monitor the incubator's status without needing to approach it. **Egg Trays**: I hope there will be more egg tray options available in the future to accommodate different egg types and sizes. Expanding the tray options would further enhance its usability, making it suitable for a wider range of poultry and enhancing the overall hatching experience. You can always hatch eggs of different sizes by removing the trays, placing the eggs on the floor, and hand-turning the eggs as needed. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/page-egg-incubator-02-format-original.jpg) **Water Tray**: This is a unique and interesting approach to adding water to your unit to increase humidity. You simply pull out a tray, add water, and then slide it back in, which generally prevents humidity loss during the process. However, there were a few instances when the tray was challenging to push back in, leading to some water spills when it was jostled. While I appreciate the convenience of not having to open the unit to add water, I prefer minimizing moving parts to streamline the process. **Humidity Control**: The humidity control on the Chickcozy has its limitations. In my experience, humidity was difficult to get above 65% even with the water drawer full and the humidity control fully closed. Personally, I prefer to achieve humidity levels above 70% during lockdown, so I had to resort to placing damp sponges inside the incubator. Fortunately, there was ample space in the unit, allowing me to do this without the sponges touching the eggs. This is a personal preference and likely won't impact novices and small-scale hobbyists. ### Conclusion After an entire hatching season using this unit, hatching chickens, quail, guineas, and geese, it quickly became my favorite incubator for lockdown since it was so easy to manage chicks without worrying about them jumping out while the lid was open. I also really appreciate the rubber flooring, which drastically reduced the risk of splay leg, and it was hands down the easiest incubator to clean. Consider making this your first (or next!) incubator. Get 5% off your entire order at Chickcozy using the code “allenandemily” at checkout or by clicking this link: [https://chickcozy.com/allenandemily](https://chickcozy.com/allenandemily?ref=allenandemily.com) --- **Disclaimer**: It's important to note that the unit used for our review was provided by Chickcozy. Nevertheless, it's crucial to emphasize that the thoughts and opinions shared in our assessment are entirely our own, and Chickcozy has had no input or editorial review in shaping our perspective. This transparency ensures an unbiased and authentic evaluation of the product based solely on our experiences and observations. ### From Gilt to Sow: The Ideal Age to Start Breeding KuneKunes URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/from-gilt-to-sow-the-ideal-age-to-start-breeding-kunekunes/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T21:26:16.000Z Breeding KuneKune pigs is not just about timing; it's about recognizing the nuanced needs of a breed known for its unique charm, docile nature, and suitability for small-scale farming. While breeding KuneKune pigs can be a rewarding endeavor, it's crucial to understand the appropriate age and circumstances for breeding to ensure the health and well-being of the pigs and their offspring. As KuneKunes develop from piglets to adults, understanding their growth stages is key to successful breeding. ### Key Factors to Consider When deciding on the appropriate age for breeding KuneKunes, several factors must be taken into account. **Physical Maturity:** KuneKunes reach sexual maturity at different ages depending on their individual development and genetics. While some gilts will experience their first heat cycle between 6 and 8 months old (and then every 21 days for the next 8-10 years), they have likely not reached the body composition necessary for a successful farrowing at this age. It may not be until a full year after their first cycle that they are ready to withstand the rigors of breeding, pregnancy, and farrowing. Each pig must be assessed individually and if you're unsure about their readiness, consult a mentor or veterinarian. **Health and Nutrition:** Proper nutrition is vital for the development of healthy breeding stock. KuneKunes should be [fed a balanced diet appropriate for their age and reproductive status](https://www.allenandemily.com/feeding-kunekunes/). A diet rich in nutrients will support optimal growth and reproductive health. A KuneKune sow is pregnant for an average of 116 days – two days longer than larger commercial breeds. The easiest way to remember this is “3 months, 3 weeks, and 3 days”. While the sow is pregnant, it is not advisable to increase the amount of feed she is receiving. This may lead to additional weight gain and birthing complications. Increased feed should begin immediately after she has given birth since she will be responsible for feeding her offspring the first several weeks of their life. Sows will go back into heat approximately 30-60 days after weaning her piglets, which itself takes about 8 weeks from when they are born. This means sows are able to have up to 2 litters a year, but each sow should be evaluated for health and body condition before deciding to re-breed. Your housing setup and weather also play a role in deciding to re-breed. In our case, we don’t have a barn equipped with permanent electricity, and temperatures can drop to 40 below zero with snowfall measured in feet. To minimize the risk of raising piglets in harsh weather, we limit farrowing to the spring. This also gives our sows ample time to recover from pregnancy and farrowing. **Emotional Readiness:** While pigs don't have the same emotional expressions as humans, there are behavioral cues you can look for to gauge her emotional maturity: **1\. Consistency in Behavior:** A mature gilt should respond predictably to feeding, human interaction, and socializing with other pigs. Emotional maturity often manifests in calm and predictable reactions to familiar stimuli, as opposed to erratic or overly reactive responses. **2\. Social Interactions:** KuneKunes are social animals, and a mature gilt will engage in balanced interactions with the herd. She should not display excessive dominance or submission but rather a healthy social integration. Immature gilts may engage in more frequent play or aggressive interactions, while more mature gilts may be more relaxed and confident in group settings. **3\. Tolerance to Stress:** A mature gilt will handle moderate stress (ex: new environments, changes in routine) with minimal anxiety. She might remain calm when handled by humans or during vet visits. Immature gilts may show heightened stress or anxiety during such situations, such as excessive vocalization or pacing. **4\. Reproductive Readiness:** Emotional maturity often coincides with physical maturity. If the gilt is of breeding age (around 14-18 months old), she should demonstrate calmness during estrus cycles and when exposed to a boar for breeding. Gilts that are emotionally immature may show nervousness, restlessness, or an inability to settle during these times. **5\. Independence and Curiosity:** Mature gilts often balance their curiosity with independence. They may explore their environment confidently without showing signs of clinginess or fearfulness. Immature gilts might cling to their mother or exhibit juvenile behaviors, like excessive whining when separated from familiar animals. **6\. Adaptability:** Emotional maturity is shown in a gilt's ability to adapt to new situations, such as pasture rotations or a change in environment, without becoming overly stressed or agitated. A well-adjusted gilt should settle into new routines relatively quickly. By observing these behavioral patterns over time, you can better gauge the emotional maturity of your KuneKune gilt. ### Conclusion Breeding KuneKunes can be a gratifying experience, but it’s paramount to prioritize the well-being of the pigs. While there’s no one-size-fits-all answer to the ideal breeding age, a general guideline is to wait until they are at least eighteen months old. By ensuring they reach the right age and are in good health, they will be physically mature enough to handle breeding, pregnancy, farrowing, and caring for their piglets. Waiting also allows you to track their heat cycles, helping you know when they are ready to be paired with a boar and better [predict their farrowing date](https://www.allenandemily.com/calculator). Remember, every pig is unique. You must monitor their development closely and consult with experienced breeders or veterinarians for guidance when needed. By prioritizing the pigs' health and welfare, breeders can enjoy a higher farrowing success rate. For anyone new to breeding, mentorship is invaluable. I highly recommend reaching out to the farms on the [AKKPS Exclusive Breeders list](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/br%5Fresults%5Fp.php?ref=allenandemily.com) or [EKPA Member Farms list](https://www.ekpa.org/member-farms?ref=allenandemily.com) to find one today. ### 2025 Farrowing Plans! URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/2025-farrowing-plans/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T01:33:57.000Z Our 2024 farrowing season is over! Phew! We want to first thank all of our customers, friends, family, and anyone that tuned into our farrowing livestreams on YouTube. Thank you all for your support! Farrowing in 2024 was a year of ups and downs. We had our most breeding pairs ever (4) and our largest single litter (9), but we also faced a number of difficulties and challenges. We lost some piglets that were stillborn and a couple that failed to thrive. We also had our most devastating loss, the death of Red Raven and her entire litter, due to birthing complications. Every loss and challenge was a lesson and we are looking forward to applying what we have learned to be even more successful with our 2025 plans. We are currently planning on 5 breeding pairs which you can see below. The plans may change due to varying circumstances, so we encourage you to keep checking back from time to time. Spring litters should arrive throughout April and May. Summer litters are being planned for June and July. Lastly, we will be maintaining our AKKPS Exclusive Breeder status. If you are interested in getting a KuneKune from us in 2026, please check out our [Notification List & Sales Policy](https://www.allenandemily.com/notification-list-sales-policy/) and join our free, no obligation, piglet notification by clicking the button below. [Sign Up for Piglet Notifications](#/portal/signup) --- ### 2025 Planned Litters Meatball + Fauna (BH Tutaki x Tapeka) - Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI):4.0054% 4 piglets born on July 7, 2025! --- 101 + Elva (Mahia Love x Rona) - Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI): 3.6736% 9 piglets born on May 20, 2025! --- 101 + Cookie (Whakanui x Rona) - Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI): 3.0803% 3 piglets born on May 8, 2025! --- Meatball + Pumpkin (BH Tutaki x Rona) - Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI): 3.7564% June 21, 2025 due date. --- 101 + Ani (Mahia Love x Rona) - Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI): 4.045% 5 piglets born on May 6, 2025! ### Why You Need a Barrow (or Two or Three…) URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/why-you-need-barrows/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T21:37:41.000Z On our homestead, every animal plays a vital role that serves a specific purpose. This practice echoes across numerous farms and homesteads. While some animals contribute through food production, flock protection, or breeding, the significance of a barrow might be overlooked. Why exactly does a farm need at least one, if not more? Its role is more crucial than you might initially think! Let’s start with some quick pig definitions. There are four types of pigs: 1. **Gilt**: a female pig who has not given birth yet. 2. **Sow**: a female pig who has had a litter. 3. **Boar**: an intact male. 4. **Barrow**: a castrated male. It’s also important to note that pigs are social creatures, thriving in the company of others. Leaving a pig alone can lead to feelings of isolation, resulting in depression and a disinterest in typical pig behaviors, including eating. In colder climates, solitary pigs lack a companion to share body heat with, intensifying the stress of winter temperatures. This is where the advantages of having a barrow become particularly evident. Integrating a barrow into your pig setup provides the advantage of having a non-breeding companion, eliminating concerns about unexpected pregnancies. When establishing a breeding program, having a companion animal proves beneficial for boars, sows, or gilts that are currently out of rotation. For example, we currently have two mature boars breeding this spring. Separating them only when a sow is in heat is made simpler by leaving one behind with his barrow buddy. This approach ensures clarity in identifying the parentage, as the non-breeding boar remains with the barrow while the breeding pair is in a separate paddock. The same strategy can be applied to female pigs, eliminating the risk of unexpected pregnancies. If you plan to raise KuneKunes for meat, choosing barrows ensures the best flavor profile in the finished product. Intact males may carry what's known as "boar taint", an offensive odor or taste that becomes noticeable during the cooking or consumption of pork from non-castrated male pigs after they reach puberty. Boar taint affects around 20% of all male finishing pigs. ### How Do We Select Our Barrows? ![ Meet our sweet barrow, Gumbo! Can you tell why he was selected to become a barrow? ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/img_2134-format-original.jpg) Meet our sweet barrow, Gumbo! Can you tell why he was selected to become a barrow? Selecting a pig to be a barrow instead of a boar is primarily driven by adherence to the breed standard in terms of body conformation. We begin by examining the number of teats each piglet has, aiming for teats that are evenly spaced to ensure future optimal nursing capabilities for sows and their litters. Having unevenly spaced teats on a sow could impair her ability to nurse her litter. This is not a trait we want passed along to offspring from either the mom or dad. Next we assess the ears, with a preference for pricked or semi-lopped ears. Curled or ears that are too forward-inclined are considered undesirable as they can impede the pig's hearing— a trait we aim to eliminate from the genetic line. Our evaluation then extends to each piglet’s back and general proportions, with a straight or slightly arched back being the most desirable. Dipping or sagging backs are considered unfavorable. Additionally, we ensure that piglets exhibit a strong, even stance, avoiding legs or knees that point too far inwards or outwards. Lastly, we favor piglets with strongly attached, double wattles. While the breed standard doesn't mandate wattles, they are a unique characteristic of KuneKunes that we appreciate and actively strive to preserve in our breeding program. ### When Does A Piglet Go From Boar to Barrow? The decision on when to castrate a pig is nuanced, and opinions may vary. Our preference is to make the castration decision around the 4-6 week mark. During this period, piglets are still manageable by one person (earplugs recommended!), and sedation is not necessary. The testicles are easily accessible at this age. As pigs grow, their skin thickens, and a layer of fat develops, making it more challenging to access the testicles. Castration at 4-6 weeks, when performed by a vet or someone experienced, is a quick process (about a minute per pig) and does not require sedation. --- Considering a barrow for your next pig purchase offers versatility for both breeding and meat programs. Not only are barrows more cost-effective than intact boars, but many breeders, including us, also provide discounts for purchasing multiple pigs at once. In line with our commitment to the well-being of the animals, we require proof of ownership of other KuneKunes or companion animals when selling a single pig, ensuring that the piglet won't be left alone. And here's a bonus for those that made it this far — barrows make fantastic house pigs! They can be trained similarly to dogs and unlike boars or sows, you don't have to deal with the negative aspects of hormones. It's a win-win for a delightful and trainable addition to your household. ### Our KuneKune Preventative Care & Vaccination Program URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/our-kunekune-vaccination-program/ Last updated: 2026-05-23T22:17:42.000Z It's important to recognize that diverse perspectives and advice exist regarding vaccination programs for pigs. There is no universal solution that fits every farm or every situation. Various regions across the country have distinct requirements, and different situations and farms with varying goals further complicate considerations. For instance, a small hobby farm with minimal visitors and limited interactions with other animals will have vastly different requirements compared to a show pig consistently on the move, engaging with other pigs and people, or a farm solely focused on getting their pigs to butcher weight. In sharing our preventative care and vaccination program, our aim is to spark curiosity and provide transparency to our customers regarding our approach. Vaccination programs should be created in partnership with a veterinarian and customized based on specific regional needs, individual farm goals, and biosecurity plans integrated into the overall health and safety program. This collaborative and region-specific approach ensures a more effective and targeted vaccination strategy for the well-being of your pigs. ### Must Have Supplies - Piglets: 22 or 20 gauge needles, 3/4” length - Adults: 16 or 18 gauge needles, 1 - 1 1/2” length - Slap-Shot Flexible Vaccinator: This is an absolute **must** have for administering shots in pigs. - Syringes: Recommended for piglets and one-off needs. - Repeater Syringe: Recommended for 5+ pigs. We recommend the Allflex Repeater Syringe. We have vaccinated up to 15 pigs in under 5 minutes with one of these. - Nitrile or Rubber Gloves ### Preventative Care We firmly believe in administering a single 200mg iron shot to piglets at 3-5 days old. Given the rapid growth of piglets, their iron needs surpass what their mother's milk can provide. Despite the presence of soluble iron in the ground, we find that the cost of the average iron shot (10-20 cents) is a minimal investment compared to the potential risks associated with underdeveloped or anemic piglets. Notably, we observe increased energy levels in piglets the day following the iron shot. We specifically use "Iron-Dextran 100 for Piglets" for this purpose. In addition to the iron shot, we recommend maintaining a stock of Penicillin, Liquimycin LA-200, Dectomax, and children's Tylenol. This preparedness allows us to respond promptly to various situations, particularly when our veterinarian may not be able to make an immediate visit to our farm. ### Deworming Deworming is a crucial step in ensuring the health and growth of pigs, as worms not only pose a threat to the pigs but can also be transmitted to humans. While practices like rotational grazing or feeding pumpkin seeds can help minimize the risk of pigs getting worms, they are not foolproof preventative measures. It's also important to recognize that parasitic worms can develop tolerance to deworming medicines over time. To address this, we recommend a rotation strategy, switching between at least two different dewormers at 6-month intervals. Our approach begins with using the injectable dewormer Dectomax for piglets. Dectomax, part of the "mectin" family, stands out from Ivermectin as it lacks alcohol, preventing any burning sensation upon injection. The subsequent treatment, six months later, involves a switch to Safe-Guard. Safe-Guard is available in various forms, such as paste, drench, or pellets. The preferred method is mixing pellets with their regular food. You must ***never use pour-on applications unless they are specifically formulated for pigs***. Most pour-on applications are designed for thicker-haired cattle and other large livestock, and can cause permanent skin damage and irreversible scars in pigs due to an increased sensitivity to sun exposure. Occasionally, during our Dectomax rotation, we incorporate Ivermectin into the deworming regimen. This comprehensive approach helps maintain the efficacy of deworming and ensures a robust defense against parasitic infections in our pigs. ### Vaccinations Disclaimer: Please make sure you read labels and create your plan with a veterinarian. This is what works for us in our specific situation. **Pneumonia** Rhini Shield TX 4 - as an aid in the prevention of Atrophic rhinitis caused by Bordetella bronchiseptica or the toxin of Pasteurella multocida types A and D, Erysipelas caused by E. rhusiopathiae and Pneumonia caused by Pasteurella multocida type A. **Parvo, Lepto, & Erysipelas** FarrowSure Gold - used for the vaccination of healthy breeding swine as an aid in preventing reproductive failure caused by porcine Parvovirus, Erysipelas and the 5 most common strains of Lepto. **Porcine Circovirus** Circumvent PCV G2 - vaccination for use in healthy swine as an aid in the prevention of viremia, as an aid in the reduction of virus shedding and as an aid in the reduction of lymphoid infection caused by Porcine Circovirus Type 2 (PCV2) __Schedule Table__ | Age | Vaccine | | -------- | ---------------- | | 3–5 days | Iron | | 3 weeks | Circumvent | | 6 weeks | Rhini Shield TX4 | | 6 weeks | Dectomax | | 8 weeks | Rhini Shield TX4 | | 6 months | Safeguard | | 6 months | FarrowSure | | 1 year | Dectomax | | 1 year | Rhini Shield TX4 | | 1 year | Circumvent | **Boosters** Yearly: Rhini Shield TX4, Circumvent PCV G2, FarrowSure Gold Additionally, it's important to highlight that certain vaccinations may require additional doses for pregnant sows at specific points during their gestation. Please check their labels. This precautionary measure is taken to ensure that their offspring receives adequate protection upon birth. It's a crucial aspect of our comprehensive approach to safeguarding the health and well-being of both the mother and her progeny in our care. --- ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/penicillin-jpeg-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/circumvent-jpeg-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/farrowsure-jpeg-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/dectomax-jpeg-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/ivermectin-jpeg-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/la-200-jpeg-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/safeguard-jpeg-format-original-1.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/iron-jpeg-format-original-1.jpg) ### First Impressions: Chickcozy Egg Incubator URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/first-impressions-chickcozy-egg-incubator/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T21:42:00.000Z The age-old saying "first impressions are lasting impressions" may very well hold true because upon initial inspection, the recently launched Chickcozy Egg Incubator stands out as a potential frontrunner in the tabletop incubator market. With 2024 underway, the eagerly anticipated hatching season is fast approaching and there's an inherent thrill in discovering innovative new solutions that have the potential to enhance our procedures and elevate hatch rates. While this incubator is new to the market, it's evident that its design has been meticulously crafted to address the shortcomings commonly found in incubators of similar size and price range. Small yet impactful features, such as the addition of a handle on the top cover, a dedicated shelf for a digital thermometer, and thoughtful design choices for easy cleaning, showcase an understanding of the needs expressed by experienced hatchers. These seemingly minor enhancements, which may not be deemed essential but significantly contribute to a more pleasant experience, set the Chickcozy Egg Incubator apart. Beyond rectifying challenges faced by seasoned hatchers with existing models, this incubator also positions itself as an ideal choice for newcomers. The inclusion of an egg candling guide and egg tracking calendars adds an extra layer of user-friendly features, making it potentially the top choice for those venturing into egg incubation for the first time. Anticipation is building as we eagerly await our first hatch. In three weeks we’ll be able to put a couple of its other unique features to the test, like the included non-slip mat for preventing splay leg issues in newborn chicks. Additionally, the innovative 2-inch wall is another standout feature, promising to securely contain chicks when opening the unit – a thoughtful addition that, to the best of my knowledge, is not commonly found in other incubators of this style and price range. It's noteworthy that all these enhancements come at a cost equivalent to, if not cheaper than, other 20-30 egg incubators on the market. The prospect of having these exclusive features, coupled with the affordability factor, instills confidence. The next three weeks will be a crucial period as we observe how well the unit maintains temperature and humidity levels. A successful hatch could very well mark the beginning of a preference shift, making the Chickcozy Egg Incubator our new favorite in the realm of tabletop incubators. --- Quick Highlights: - Holds 25 eggs - Unique water drawer for humidity control - Temperature was within 1 degree and 3 percent humidity from factory - Built-in candler and handle on the top cover - Automatic egg turner - Great instructions and support material for first time hatchers - Under $200 - 2-year warranty This incubator is currently on pre-order with plans to ship in early February. At the time of writing this, Chickcozy is also running a 10% discount. You can get an additional 5% off your entire order using the coupon code “allenandemily” or clicking one of the links below! Affiliate Link: [https://chickcozy.com/allenandemily](https://chickcozy.com/allenandemily?ref=allenandemily.com) Direct Product Link: [https://chickcozy.com/72ljfx](https://chickcozy.com/72ljfx?ref=allenandemily.com) Will this be crowned as our new, favorite tabletop incubator? We’ll have a full review in February after our first hatch. You can track results on our [2024 Hatching Tracker page](https://www.allenandemily.com/2024-hatching-tracker/). --- Disclaimer: It's important to note that the unit used for our review and testing was provided by Chickcozy. Nevertheless, it's crucial to emphasize that the thoughts and opinions shared in our assessment are entirely our own, and Chickcozy has had no input or editorial review in shaping our perspective. This transparency ensures an unbiased and authentic evaluation of the product based solely on our experiences and observations. ### Feeding KuneKunes URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/feeding-kunekunes/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T21:43:55.000Z KuneKunes, known as pasture pigs, predominantly derive their nutrition from pasture grasses and forbs. While they thrive on a diet primarily composed of these natural elements, it is crucial to supplement their grazing with specialized pig feed to guarantee they receive essential minerals and nutrients. Our insights into successful pig management, gained from mentors and fellow farmers, emphasize the significance of this balanced approach on our own farm. ### About Pig Feed When it comes to pig feed, the options typically include mash, crumble, or pellets. Our preference has consistently leaned towards pellets, and we even opt for making our own pellets from mash when possible. This choice is driven by practical considerations – mash tends to be dry and powdery, resulting in considerable food wastage and potential respiratory issues. Pellets, on the other hand, offer a more structured form, aiding in the prevention of selective eating, ensuring that pigs receive a well-rounded intake of all essential nutrients rather than just targeting the tastiest portions. Given that KuneKunes are classified as lard pigs, with a tendency to accumulate fat rapidly, the choice of feed becomes a critical factor. It is essential to opt for feeds with lower protein content compared to those designed for commercial meat breeds. Look for feeds with approximately 16-18% protein, 1-1.5% lysine, 3-5% fat, and salt levels below 1%. The lower protein content is crucial to maintain the health of your pigs without encouraging excessive weight gain. Lysine plays a pivotal role in aiding pigs to efficiently utilize protein and essential amino acids in their diet. Additionally, it is imperative to keep salt levels minimal, as larger quantities can be toxic to pigs. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/akkps-feed-chart-format-original.jpg) ### How *much* should you feed your pig? Our approach consists of two daily feedings: one in the morning and another in the late afternoon. The approach to feeding is tailored to the specific developmental stage of each pig and the environmental factors that may impact their dietary needs. In winter, when there is snow accumulation and pasture availability is limited, we adjust the feed quantities, adding an extra scoop or two based on the pigs' condition and cold weather. Gestation: 3 lbs / day Lactation: 5-9 lbs / day Pre-Weaning/Weaning: FREE FEED\*\* (Make sure momma pig can’t get to it) Grower: 3-4 lbs / day Maintenance: 2-4 lbs / day ### The importance of weighing your feed Many online resources may suggest feeding a specific quantity, such as two cups of food per adult pig per meal. However, these recommendations often overlook the crucial factor of the feed's form—whether it's in mash, crumble, or pellets. Furthermore, not all feeds are equal, with pellets from different manufacturers varying significantly in weight. It's important to recognize that 1 cup of mash does not weigh the same as 1 cup of crumble or pellets. To accurately determine the appropriate amount you should be feeding your pigs, it's essential to establish the weight of 1 cup of your specific pig feed. Once you have this weight measurement, you can then calculate the number of cups needed to align with the weight-based guidelines mentioned earlier. This tailored approach ensures a more precise and effective feeding strategy for your pigs. ### Winter Feeding Living in an area that experiences harsh winters with measurable snowfall, like ours, requires supplementing your pigs' feed with hay, considering their nature as pasture pigs. However, hay can be both expensive and prone to wastage. An alternative to consider is incorporating alfalfa pellets into their diet. Since alfalfa pellets can be bitter, it's advisable not to feed them directly. Instead, add them to your pigs' regular feed or mix them with warm water. This not only breaks down the pellet form but also provides the pigs with a "warm meal," which they are likely to appreciate, especially during colder weather. It's a practical solution that minimizes waste and enhances the overall feeding experience for your pigs in winter. ### Treats Our pigs have a particular fondness for bananas and squash, and we've found a budget-friendly approach to providing these treats. Whenever we visit the local grocery store or gas station, we seek out the cheapest bananas, often those marked for discount before disposal. As for squash, we recommend checking with local pumpkin patches after Halloween for discarded pumpkins. Additionally, we make efforts to grow our own pumpkins and various squash varieties, with success using the Milpa Garden Warm Season mix from Green Cover. During the scorching summer months, our pigs relish frozen coconut cream treats. To make these, simply freeze coconut cream (typically found in the Asian aisle at the grocery store; note, it's coconut cream, not coconut oil) in ice cube trays. These frozen delights offer a cool, creamy treat that also contributes to addressing dry skin issues. It's important to emphasize moderation when providing treats, ensuring a balanced and healthy dietary approach for your pigs. ### Additional Resources --- Featured in the October 2024 AKKPS Eblast: [https://americankunekunepigsociety.org/feeding-kunekune-by-emily-allen/](https://americankunekunepigsociety.org/feeding-kunekune-by-emily-allen/?ref=allenandemily.com) ### Pasture-raised KuneKune Pork Nutritional Benefits URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/pasture-raised-kunekune-pork-nutritional-benefits/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T21:47:18.000Z The [Empire KuneKune Pig Association](https://www.ekpa.org/?ref=allenandemily.com) (EKPA), an organization committed to the preservation, conservation, and education of the original intent and purpose of the KuneKune breed, recently funded the analysis and testing of the nutritional benefits of pasture-raised KuneKune pork compared to commercial pork. The results were insightful and will help guide our future pork purchasing decisions. My hope is you will also review these results and consider changing your buying habits too. We have not yet harvested a KuneKune for meat, either for ourselves or for others. I am currently in a mentorship program with the EKPA, so when we are in a position to offer KuneKune meat, we can offer the best product possible for our customers. In the meantime, please consider changing your pork buying habits and make your next purchase from any of the [KPPA Certified Farms](https://www.ekpa.org/certifiedfarms?ref=allenandemily.com) across the country. You'll be able to take comfort knowing you are purchasing from a trusted farm that raises pigs humanely, sustainably, and to the animal welfare guidelines set by the KuneKune Pork Producers Association, and ultimately, buying a nutritionally superior product to the commercial pork you find in your local grocery store. If you have purchased KuneKune pork before from one of these farms, please leave a comment letting us know your thoughts and experience. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/ekpa-flyer-format-original.png) Find out more about the Nutritional Data Testing on EKPA’s website: [https://www.ekpa.org/kppa-nutritional-testing](https://www.ekpa.org/kppa-nutritional-testing?ref=allenandemily.com) ### KuneKune Temperatures URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/kunekune-temperatures/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T21:59:03.000Z The table below can help when assessing the health of your pig. Knowing how and when to take a pig’s temperature is essential to good animal husbandry and caretaking. “When” is simple: any time you think your pig is sick or seems “off”. “How” is easy too. Taking the temperature is done through the anus. On a boy, it’s the only hole. On a girl, it’s the upper most hole. If you have a less than willing participant, which is rare, you can usually distract a KuneKune with some food or belly scratches and then do what needs to be done. A little lubrication helps too. You don’t need to spend a ton of money on a thermometer. You just need to find a digital thermometer that can take a temperature quickly. We buy ours from the local dollar store for around $4\. You can find them online at Premier 1 Supplies for $5-6\. [https://www.premier1supplies.com/p/digital-thermometer](https://www.premier1supplies.com/p/digital-thermometer?ref=allenandemily.com) My biggest recommendation is make sure you have two. This allows you to verify the accuracy of a temperature reading. More importantly, this ensures you always have one on standby just in case (e.g. battery dies). ### Temperature Chart | Fahrenheit | Celsius | Clinical State | | ------------- | ------------- | -------------------- | | 99.5 or lower | 37.5 or lower | Approaching Death | | 100 - 101 | 37.7 - 38.3 | Toxic or Hypothermic | | 101.5 - 102.5 | 38.61 - 39.16 | Normal | | 102.5+ | 39.16+ | Fevered | | 109 | 42.77 | Approaching Death | ### 2024 Farrowing Plans! URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/2024-farrowing-plans/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T01:35:33.000Z Our 2023 farrowing has wrapped up. Our boars and sows that we raised in 2022 weren’t quite old enough for breeding this year so we purchased two exposed sows and had 9 piglets successfully born on the farm. All of the piglets we did not plan on keeping have or are in the process of making it to their new homes. Thank you to everyone who made this a success for us! We can’t wait for the 2024 breeding and farrowing season. Our current plans are below. They may change as we get closer to time so make sure to check back often. Spring litters should arrive in late April and early May. If you are interested in getting a KuneKune from us in 2026, please check out our [Notification List & Sales Policy](https://www.allenandemily.com/notification-list-sales-policy/) and join our free, no obligation, piglet notification by clicking the button below. [Sign Up for Piglet Notifications](#/portal/signup) --- ### 2024 Spring Litters 101 + Reba (Mahia Love x Rona) - Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI): 3.6736% [AKKPS Trial Breeding Results](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/members/hypothetical%5Fm.php?daid=2378&daname=Hidden%20Pond%20Grasslands%20Rona%204&said=20302&saname=FM%20Creekside%20Critters%20Mahia%20Love%202&submitSDAID=Go&ref=allenandemily.com) Delivered 9 piglets (6 boys, 3 girls) on April 22, 2024! --- Gus + Elva (Tutanekai x Rona) - Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI): 4.4708% [AKKPS Trial Breeding Results](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/members/hypothetical%5Fm.php?daid=2379&daname=Hidden%20Pond%20Grasslands%20Rona%205&said=38778&saname=JDB%20Mahia%20Love%20TF%201&submitSDAID=Go&ref=allenandemily.com) Delivered 5 piglets (4 girls, 1 boy) on May 13, 2024! --- Pepperoni + Fauna (BH Tutaki x Tapeka) - Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI): 4.4942% [AKKPS Trial Breeding Results](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/members/pedigree%5Fm.php?said=38778&daid=21559&ref=allenandemily.com) Delivered 4 piglets (2 girls, 2 boys) on June 2, 2024! --- Gus + Red Raven (Tutanekai x Rona) - Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI): 3.6752% [AKKPS Trial Breeding Results](https://www.akkps-registry.org/db/members/hypothetical%5Fm.php?daid=18315&daname=Raven%27s%20Nest%20Rona%2021&said=38778&saname=JDB%20Mahia%20Love%20TF%201&submitSDAID=Go&ref=allenandemily.com) Red Raven passed away due to complications during farrowing. No piglets survived. ### Review: KEBONNIXS 12 Egg Incubator URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/review-kebonnixs-12-egg-incubator/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T22:02:31.000Z The KEBBONIXS 12 Egg incubator is a great option for those looking for an easy-to-use incubator for hatching eggs. One of the standout features of this incubator is the great visibility it provides, allowing you to easily monitor the development of your eggs. The temperature and humidity were also accurate out of the box, which is always a plus. Another great feature is the automatic egg turner, which takes the labor out of manually turning the eggs. We purchased ours for around $80 which makes it one of the more affordable incubators but at the time of writing this, the price has jumped to $125-149\. My guidance would be to go with a [different incubator](https://www.allenandemily.com/review-nurture-right-360-egg-incubator-by-mannapro/) if priced over $100\. One of the often overlooked features is it only requires a single power outlet. Other units in this same price range require two power outlets — one for the heating element, the other for the egg turner. With its all plastic design, cleaning this unit is a breeze, making it a great option for those who want to hatch eggs without a lot of hassle. The built-in candler isn’t the best but is adequate. On the downside, the instructions that come with this unit are poorly translated to English, and can be difficult to understand. Also, once the 12 eggs hatch, the incubator can feel cramped, which is similar to other incubators when they are at their maximum capacity. It is noteworthy that my personal experience with the hatch rates using this incubator have been inconsistent, with varying success rates. Despite using the same incubation conditions and eggs from the same batch, I have seen a wide range of outcomes, from less than 50% success rate in one hatch to over 80% in the next. This contrasts with the consistent high success rates of over 80% that I have achieved with other incubators. Overall, the KEBBONIXS 12 Egg incubator looks and operates similarly to Brinsea and Harris Farms models, and is a great option, when priced right, for those who want an affordable and easy-to-use incubator for hatching eggs. --- Cons - Inconsistent hatch rates - Overpriced above $100 - Instructions are poorly translated to English - Cramped if all eggs hatch Pros - Out of the box temperature and humidity was accurate - Automatic Egg Turner - Thick styrofoam maintains temperature - Easy to clean - Circulates air (personal preference) - Built-in candler - Can add water without opening lid - Build-in hygrometer - Red indicator light when heat is operating - Plastic outer shell can be written on with dry erase marker Note: This is not a sponsored review. This unit was purchased with our own money. ### 2023 Lambing Season Recap URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/lambing-season-2023/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T22:07:52.000Z I want to start by saying that the 2023 lambing season was a success, despite a couple losses. We ended up with seven lambs total, four ewes and three rams. In every case, I was surprised with lambs that were already cleaned and fed and mothers who had bounced back to normal. None of my ewes were first time moms, and all had previously done a great job with the whole process. We went into the season with four ewes bred to our ram Baldur, and one bred to a different ram off-farm. As I said, our successful season wasn’t without losses. Betty is the only sheep left from the original flock, and this lamb would be her first despite Betty being three years old. In January, I noticed she was having some black discharge and immediately knew something was wrong. I sent pictures to a fellow shepherd and she told me to get the vet out as soon as possible. The large concern was that she may have miscarried and had a mummified lamb still inside her. The vet came out that day, performed an ultrasound, and said there was nothing inside her and that it was definitely a miscarriage. Despite it all, Betty was otherwise very healthy and doing surprisingly well. While it’s sad that she wasn’t able to lamb along with the rest of the flock, I’m grateful that she is healthy and strong. We will try again in the fall, but if she miscarries again then that will be the last time we attempt to breed her. The first ewe due to lamb was Ulla, an unregistered polled four-year-old ewe given to me in December 2022 from Amanda at Woollyhorn Farm. Ulla was bred with one of Amanda’s rams before we brought her home. Her due date was March 30 and leading up to that day her udder was massive. Amanda had sent pictures, so I knew what to look out for as far as udder size/color/etc. and, as it turns out, Ulla was right on time—she lambed overnight and I went out on the morning of March 30 to see two vibrant, lively ewe lambs. Both girls were almost the exact same size, and have continued to grow in step and are inseparable. Chickpea is white with moorit spotting, and Queenie is solid moorit with “sugar lips” (silvery white around mouth and in ears). As of today, I intend to retain both ewes. ![ Queenie ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/orlaith-format-original.jpg) Queenie ![ Chickpea ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/image-asset-format-original.jpg) Chickpea A lot of lambing season is spent following around the pregnant ewes and checking out their udders and backsides. If you know, you know! Based on this, I thought Ylfa would be our next to lamb. On April 6, Allen had to spend the day in Eau Claire while I managed the farm solo. I had checked on all the sheep three or four times with no changes, then went out after lunch to see a fresh new black moorit lamb drinking from Mara. His horn buds were impressive already! Mara’s ram lamb, who I named Ronan, is large and healthy, not unlike her previous ram lamb who was meant to be our 2022 breeding ram before a freak aortic rupture. ![ Ronan, with Mara ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/ronan-format-original.jpg) Ronan, with Mara Next up was our lovely unregistered polled black and gray ewe Maple. Last year she had a single badgerface ram on our farm, totally unassisted, and this year she had two ewe lambs. First thing in the morning on April 7, just a day after Mara, Maple had her girls Sugar (white spotted, only a small bit of black on her legs) and Rosie (black and white piebald). Both were very energetic, though Rosie more so than Sugar, and both were already cleaned and fed when I made it out to them. Once again, Maple has proven to be an excellent mother, if maybe a little overprotective at times. I intend to keep Sugar, as she has become very affectionate and I prefer to keep multiple sheep with white wool for processing and dyeing purposes. ![ Rosie ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/roisin-jpeg-format-original.jpg) Rosie ![ Sugar ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/saoirse-jpeg-format-original.jpg) Sugar And finally Ylfa. We waited. And waited and waited. Her udder swelled so big she was waddling around, and still we waited. I started to get nervous that she would have triplets, which would mean I would potentially need to assist and bottle feed. Every time I went out to the pasture I would say to her “Ylfa will you PLEASE have your lambs?!” and she would look at me like “I’M TRYING!” On April 12, Allen went out to do morning chores before me and said “Get out here—you’re going to lose your mind” and boy was he right. Overnight, Ylfa had delivered two ram lambs, including one with a pattern called “flashing". I have always been obsessed with sheep with flashing and the new guy is no exception. Finn (grey with flashing) and Owen (grey with white spotting, overall looks white) were clean and fed and snoozing next to their mama. Every time I think about getting rid of Ylfa because she is so standoffish I remember that she is an outstanding mom and reconsider. ![ Finn ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/finn-jpeg-format-original.jpg) Finn ![ Owen ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/owen-format-original.jpg) Owen Just when I thought our lambing season was over, we had our first real heartbreak. I received Eir in December, along with Ulla, and was given the understanding that she had not been bred because she was too small and likely wouldn’t even cycle during the 2022 season. Again, Amanda offered Eir to me as a bit of a rehab because she was a 2022 lamb who spent all that summer sick with pneumonia and was TINY. I can’t say no to a “lost cause” like that, so of course I was happy to take her in. While she was exposed to rams at Amanda’s farm, and very briefly at ours as well, I was not concerned about her being bred based on the given circumstances. Unfortunately, we were wrong. On the morning of May 1, I was getting my coffee ready and looked out the kitchen window at the pasture and said to Allen “Oh my god Eir is lambing right now!” I was surprised but excited, grabbing my lamb midwife kit and running out. As I got closer to Eir, it was immediately clear that the lamb was not alive. Once again, I reached out to my sheep guru Amanda who said to pull like hell and get the lamb out of her. I pulled and pulled but just couldn’t manage it, and opted to call my vet for the assist rather than further traumatizing Eir. I’ve said it before, I really am lucky to have a vet who lives close and who has sheep of her own. She was so gentle and reassuring to Eir (and me), and after trying to pull the lamb out she said she was going to have to remove the head in order to get the body out. I think Eir and I both kind of disassociated while this was all happening. On the positive side, the vet said nothing in Eir was torn, so she should be able to lamb again when she is actually the proper size and age. I feel like a failure in a lot of ways, like I let Eir down by allowing this all to happen to her, but the fact is that some things aren’t predictable and sometimes really sad things just happen. We learn from them and do our best not to repeat the same mistakes in the future. I’m already working on deciding breeding groups for next year! There is never a quiet moment at the farm, and as soon as lambing finished we went right into piglet season with our Elva having four piglets on April 21\. Our other adult kunekune, Reba, is due around June 5! This year showed that our physical space and my mental and emotional space are more limited than I would like. But overall, I’m so pleased with how things ended and look forward to next year! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/chickpea-lamb-jpeg-format-original.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/lamb-group-jpeg-format-original.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/ronan-jpeg-format-original.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/sugar-lamb-jpeg-format-original.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/sugar-cuddles-jpeg-format-original.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/img_7962-format-original.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/finn-lamb-jpeg-format-original.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/rosie-and-sugar-jpeg-format-original.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/rosie-and-ronan-jpeg-format-original.jpg) ### 2023 Hatching Season Has Started! URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/2023-hatching-season-has-started/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T22:08:53.000Z We are excited to share that 2023 hatching season has officially started for us — a whole 3.5 months earlier than last year! After *significantly* downsizing our flock throughout the fall and winter — seriously, we sold over 100 birds between August and now — we are looking forward to building it back up with specific breeds and selling some rather unique chicks and colorful eggs throughout 2023. We are currently incubating a dozen French Black Copper Marans, courtesy of [Loveridge Farm in Illinois](https://www.facebook.com/loveridgefarm/), that should be hatching at the very end of February. In just a few days, we’ll be receiving our first ever Ayan Cemani hatching eggs alongside a dozen Olive Eggers from [Country Haven Farm in Ohio](https://www.facebook.com/countryhavenfarm/). We’ll end our hatching egg purchases with an additional dozen French Black Copper Maran eggs from Tennessee. What can we say, we love their chocolatey brown eggs and they are key in creating many of the other, unique colors of eggs through crossbreeding. In addition to the hatching eggs we’ve bought from other farms, we are waiting on our Erminette Ameraucana hens to start laying. Thanks to those girls, as well as our handsome Black Ameraucana rooster, we should be able to offer Erminette chicks later this spring! Lastly, and this is completely new territory for us, we are looking to offer a couple different types of bantams, including Old English BB Reds and Frizzle Mille Fleur d’Uccles! --- Make sure to[ check out our Instagram page](https://www.instagram.com/allen%5Fand%5Femily/?ref=allenandemily.com) for all the progress, updates, and photos! ### Review: ShelterLogic Small Livestock Portable Shelter URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/review-shelterlogic-small-livestock-portable-shelter/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T22:21:46.000Z We were on the hunt for a low cost, easy to assemble and maintain shelter to give our sheep another place for relief from the heat and elements. Our search led us to ShelterLogic — a company that makes a number of different sized and shaped structures for different use cases including car ports, greenhouses, and sheds. We have found that the ShelterLogic Small Livestock Portable Shelter is an *excellent* option for homesteaders looking to provide additional protection for their sheep and other small livestock. The structure is made of metal framing and a heavy duty, 100% waterproof, tarp-like material. The assembly and installation process takes around two hours and requires two people to complete. It also comes with easy-to-understand instructions. One of the standout features of this shelter is the great visibility it provides, allowing you to easily monitor the status of your animals. The covering material has proven strong enough to withstand everything a Wisconsin summer and winter can throw at it, and the framing sturdy enough to withstand 60+ MPH wind and the occasional sheep looking for a scratching post. In our experience, the sheep prefer it over their three-sided building during the hot summer weather as they get the shade from the sun they need but also the tunnel shape allows a breeze to blow through. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/image-asset-jpeg-format-original-4.jpg) One thing to note, I *strongly* recommend purchasing better ground anchors. The anchors that come with the shelter are the auger type that you twist and turn into the ground. For an extra $50, ShelterLogic offers their EasyHook Ratchet TITE anchor system. These are an anchor that you drive into the ground with a metal rod and hammer that then connect to ratchet straps — allowing you to easily adjust and tighten the building to the ground. These anchors have successfully weathered multiple storms with wind speeds in excess of 60+ MPH and have shown no signs of wear or movement. After installing them, for at least the first few days and after the first major storm, you should check everything and tighten as necessary. If you think this unit would be a good solution for you and your livestock, I would recommend thinking of it as a supplementary structure to a primary building that has at least three sides. Otherwise if you want this to be your singular primary animal shelter, you should really consider figuring out a way to block one of the sides, especially if you live somewhere with harsh winters. Overall, we are thrilled with our purchase of the ShelterLogic Small Livestock Portable Shelter and highly recommend it to anyone looking for an affordable and easy-to-use shelter for their sheep and other small livestock. We have had our shelter for 9 months, and it looks as new as the day we built it. We can’t wait to get a few more! --- Cons - You must buy better ground anchors. We recommend the EasyHook Ratchet TITE Anchor Kit from ShelterLogic for an additional $50. Pros - Cost ($250) - Easy to assemble - Strong and sturdy - Animals prefer it in the heat Note: This is not a sponsored review. This unit was purchased with our own money. ### 2022 Look Back URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/2022-look-back/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T22:23:10.000Z We experienced tremendous growth in almost every aspect of our farm in 2022\. In the course of that growth, there were many surprises, lessons we learned, challenges we overcame, and smiles we shared. Here are 10 of 2022's biggest highlights! #### **First Lamb Born on the Farm** We had a rough 2021-22 winter, losing two of our sheep to an outbreak of listeriosis. One thing we've learned is that when bad times hit, the Icelandic Sheep community rallies to help. Many people offered us replacement sheep, and one of them was pregnant when she was delivered to us! This led to [the first lamb being born on our farm](https://www.allenandemily.com/saturday-surprise/)! #### **New Tractor** We finally pulled together enough money to buy a new tractor! Before that, we had a trailer so we could borrow a tractor whenever needed from Emily’s dad. Our new tractor, a Kubota M7060, has allowed us to do so many more things, so much more efficiently. We have no idea how we got by for so long without one. #### **New Pasture** We got a woven wire fence permanently installed on roughly an acre and a half of a former cornfield that we converted to pasture over the last 3-4 years. This pasture has afforded us greater peace of mind when it comes to the safety of our sheep flock and saved our backs from having to constantly move their electric netting around every time we needed to put them on new ground. #### **First Kunekunes** We picked up our first Kunekunes! We started off with three little girls (gilts) that were born in August that we picked up from a farm in Wisconsin, and immediately ordered two boys (boars) that were born in April and shipped to us from Missouri. #### **First Animal Swap** I attended my first animal swap — the Taylor County Swap — and sold almost everything I took there including 20+ Guinea Keets, 2 Ameraucana Roosters, and 1 Easter Egger Rooster. While I “swapped” most of those for money, I did swap a handsome, all-white Ameraucana rooster with someone for a kitten. My goal for that day was to reduce the number of animals heading into winter, and much to Emily's surprise, instead of returning home with any new chickens or farm animals, [I brought back a new cat, who she named Clementine](https://www.instagram.com/p/ChN00MhJpDf/?ref=allenandemily.com)! #### **Reared First Queen Bee** Expanding the number of bee hives in an apiary can often require significant investments in packaged bees. This year, I decided to experiment with rearing my own queens, which involves transferring freshly laid bee eggs into a new hive and fostering specific conditions that promote queen bee development. Despite my lack of experience and self-taught approach through watching YouTube videos and reading books, I was able to successfully rear one queen and transfer her from a small 4-frame nucleus to a full-size 10-frame box! #### **Caught Multiple Bee Swarms** Catching a bee swarm can be a thrilling, yet stressful, experience. Witnessing the sheer magnitude of bees in one place is truly awe-inspiring. The opportunity to catch a swarm and start a new hive using essentially "free" bees is an added bonus. However, it is important to note that attempting to catch a swarm in high winds using a ladder on the back of a truck is not recommended, based on my personal experience. Despite this, the end result of starting the year with 8 hives and ending with 10 is a great accomplishment. #### **Hatched and Sold Eggs** In 2022, we successfully incubated our first batch of eggs, starting with fertilized eggs I brought up from a trip down to Missouri. We had such a good time that we ended up buying additional incubators and continued to hatch eggs throughout the summer. Additionally, we were able to connect with someone locally who was interested in buying fertilized Guinea eggs. At our peak during the summer, we were able to sell 8 dozen eggs per week. We anticipate even greater success in 2023, particularly as the avian flu continues to impact chicken flocks and drive up egg prices in grocery stores. #### **Welcome Juniper!** There is only one thing better than having two dogs, and that’s [getting a third](https://www.instagram.com/p/ChQtMQLsJ5F/?ref=allenandemily.com)! Our Australian Cattle dogs, Zelda and Luna, welcomed their new sister, Juniper (also known as Junebug), a German Wirehaired Pointer, into their pack in August. The three of them are inseparable. #### **Website and Store Up** Finally, we are thrilled to have established an online presence for our farm. We not only launched our website, but also set up an online store and were successful in making several sales. We are grateful for the support of our readers, friends who spread the word about our farm, friends we've made in the Icelandic Sheep community, and strangers who made the conscious decision to support small businesses like ours. In summary, 2022 was an exciting and eventful year on our farm. We experienced a range of highlights, from the birth of our first lamb, to the acquisition of new equipment and animals. We also faced challenges and learned valuable lessons along the way. We're proud of all that we accomplished and grateful for the support of our community. As we look forward to 2023, we are eager to share even more adventures and experiences with our community, and to continue to grow and improve our farm. We are excited to see what the new year brings and can't wait to see what the future holds! ### Here Comes the Sun (Damage) URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/here-comes-the-sun-damage/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T22:24:38.000Z Sun safety never used to be a concern for me. Growing up, I rarely burned, and any burn was really just a touch of pink that was gone the next day. The thing about sun damage that many don’t consider—there is no going back and undoing things. [Even one blistering sunburn in childhood or adolescence more than **doubles** your chances of developing melanoma later in life](https://www.skincancer.org/risk-factors/sunburn/?ref=allenandemily.com#:~:text=Even%20one%20blistering%20sunburn%20in,your%20risk%20of%20skin%20cancer). While I can’t go back in time and stop myself from those mistakes, there are steps I take now to minimize my sun damage risks. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/image-asset-jpeg-format-original-5.jpg) The time of day you’re outside absolutely matters. Sun intensity peaks between the hours of 10AM and 4PM, so I try to schedule my outside time around that. Clothing provides a line of defense against sun damage. Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) indicates how much UV radiation (both UVB and UVA) a fabric allows to reach your skin. For example, a UPF 50 fabric blocks 98 percent of the sun’s rays and allows two percent (1/50th) to penetrate, thus reducing your exposure risk significantly.The more you can do to cover from the top down, the better. And as Wu Tang has taught us, you best protect ya neck! Commonly forgotten spots are the neck, ears, and tops of feet. If you’re someone who hates using sunblock, dressing in sun protective clothing can be a huge win. You get all the protection without having to apply and reapply sunblock! When you’re getting dressed and prepared to go outside, remember to also use eye protection. At least 10% of cataract cases are attributable to UV exposure, so wearing UV-filtering sunglasses is a simple step to lower your risks of eye damage. Wearing a wide brim, tightly woven hat can help to protect your face, neck, and eyes. Basal cell and squamous cell carcinomas account for about 90 percent of all skin cancers, and often appear on the head and neck. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/the_skin_cancer_foundation_logo-format-original.png) Sunblock can be a little bit complicated when you’re trying to figure out factors like chemical vs. mineral, water resistance, potential allergens, and more. I recommend checking out [skincancer.org](http://www.skincancer.org/?ref=allenandemily.com) for more details but ultimately the best sunscreen is the one you will wear **every day**. For me, on days where I won’t be spending a ton of time outside, I use the [EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46](https://www.dermstore.com/eltamd-uv-clear-broad-spectrum-spf46/11370303.html?ref=allenandemily.com). When I know I’ll be spending a lot of time outside or getting particularly sweaty, I prefer the [La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-In Sunscreen Milk SPF 60](https://www.dermstore.com/la-roche-posay-anthelios-melt-in-sunscreen-milk-spf-60/12134525.html?ref=allenandemily.com). Do a little bit of testing to see what works best for you! The Skin Cancer Foundation advises everyone to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher every day. For extended outdoor activity, use a water-resistant, broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. Reapply every two hours or after swimming or sweating. Limiting sun damage is not a single-pronged approach. It’s about taking multiple steps, creating numerous layers of protection. And make sure those steps are sustainable to you and your lifestyle. Be safe out there! --- **References:** https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-prevention/sun-protection/ https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-prevention/sun-protection/sunscreen/ https://www.cancer.org/cancer/skin-cancer.html https://www.cancer.org/healthy/be-safe-in-sun.html --- Credits: Photos by [Aaron Burden](https://unsplash.com/@aaronburden?utm%5Fsource=unsplash&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcontent=creditCopyText) & [Todd Kent](https://unsplash.com/@churchoftodd?utm%5Fsource=unsplash&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcontent=creditCopyText) on [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?ref=allenandemily.com) ### 8 Things You Should Know About Raising Guinea Fowl URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/8-things-you-should-know-about-raising-guineas/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T22:26:31.000Z We’ve only been raising guineas for a few years, starting off with 5, growing to 35, and now currently settled in at a flock of 32 — and always hatching more! While I do not proclaim to be an expert, in fact I learn more about them seemingly every day, there are a few things I believe everyone should know before starting any kind of adventure into raising guineas, at any scale. #### **Guineas are not chickens** This may seem obvious but you must know before getting into guineas that they are nowhere near the same as chickens. For some people and breeds, chickens can be as close to you as household pets; jumping up on your lap, coming to your calls, and even letting you bend down and pet them. Guineas are wild birds, they are *not* domesticated. They do not make for good pets. No matter how familiar they get with you, you will very rarely be able to touch them, pick them up, or get close to them. They are incredibly fast. #### **They know no boundaries** Guineas can *fly*. Unlike chickens who can hop and gain a little bit of height flapping their wings, guineas can full out fly. This leads them to get into some peculiar situations — on your vehicle, high up in trees, even on top of your house. In addition to flying, they like to roam. Short of clipping their wings, which I do not recommend doing, they will go wherever they want. Regardless of where you live, even in a rural setting, you must have a good relationship with your neighbors and should warn them you are going to start raising guineas. Guineas don’t understand roads or property lines. #### **They are loud** Try remembering that car alarm that woke you up in the middle of the night, or the sound of a nearby chainsaw, multiply that by 2 and you can start to understand how loud guineas can get. This is a blessing and a curse. They make for a great home security system, warning you of every person or vehicle that comes nearby. They also warn each other and any chickens of overhead dangers. Guineas seem to feed off of each other’s vocalizations — once one starts, they all get into it and don’t stop until *they* want to. This is a reminder to, once again, make sure you get along with your neighbors. #### **They eat all the bugs** This might be one of the best benefits of owning guineas. They eat any and all bugs. Chickens will also eat bugs but they’ll tear up your ground scratching to find them or destroy your garden picking a bugs on your vegetables. Guineas don’t scratch and they seem to strike with a greater precision when picking bugs off of plants. Whereas we try to keep chickens out of our garden, we invite guineas in. Perhaps most importantly, they like to eat ticks! #### **They can be super low maintenance** Once guineas are adults, they can be as low maintenance as you desire. They do a great job finding their own food and water. They also don’t require any kind of coop. We still keep our guineas in a coop but make no mistake, training them to come back nightly is a long and arduous task. Otherwise you could forego a coop and guineas will have no problem finding their own safety by roosting high up in trees. #### **They are bad moms** For as low maintenance as guineas can be once they reach adulthood, they take a lot of work when they are keets (the name for guinea “chicks”). Guineas are notoriously bad parents. They don’t lay in nesting boxes and tend to hide their nests, not only from predators but also you. They’ll lay quite a few eggs before getting broody. Once their eggs are hatched, if they are lucky enough to get to that point out in the wild against nest predators and the weather, hens typically abandon the keets. For the hens that don’t outright abandon their clutch, they don’t seem to have any concept of the fragility of their keets — walking them through ditches or near puddles filled with water or roosting in trees while the keets are still unable to fly and leaving them to sleep on the ground. If you plan to raise guineas and want to raise keets, plan on having an incubator and brood box. You’ll also want a different starter food for your keets as they require a higher percentage of protein (+20%) than what comes in chick starter food (16%). #### **They can get along with chickens** Just because they can, doesn’t mean they will. Guineas can be outright bullies to chickens, jumping on them, chasing them, and pulling out their feathers. This is especially true when multiple guineas start grouping up. If you feel compelled to raise guineas with your chickens, I recommend housing them in two separate areas. Otherwise, make sure you raise the chickens and the keets together from day one, and have significantly more chickens so the guineas can’t group up or outnumber the chickens. I haven’t seen chickens bully guineas in the same way. Keets start off significantly smaller than chicks, and never fully catch up to them in size. #### **They are fun to watch** Simply put, they are a lot of fun to watch and raise. They have distinctly different personalities and vocalizations than all other farm birds. They also come in all sorts of weird and unique coloring (see some examples from our flock below). Like a herd of sheep grazing across a pasture, you can watch your guineas decimate a yard full of bugs. Lastly, they hilariously [Naruto run](https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/naruto-run?ref=allenandemily.com) to get around quickly. #### Bonus! What about their eggs? I wanted to briefly mention their eggs. Guinea eggs are smaller than chicken eggs but have a richer and creamier taste due to having a higher yolk to egg white ratio. They are great for eating or baking. Even though they are smaller, they usually fetch a higher price, sometimes upwards of $1 an egg, due to how rare they are compared to chicken or duck eggs and how difficult they are to collect. Remember, guineas don’t lay in nesting boxes like chickens do, and oftentimes you are lucky to even find their nest. They also only lay during the warmer months. It’s also worth noting that some cultures treat guineas as a delicacy, both the meat and their eggs. While this is not an exhaustive or conclusive list, I hope this helps you avoid some of the learning and growing pains we had to go through so you can more quickly become successful at raising your own guineas. They are fun to have around! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/img_2112-format-original.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/img_2110-format-original.jpg) ### Review: Harris Farms Nurture Right 360° Egg Incubator URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/review-nurture-right-360-egg-incubator-by-mannapro/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T22:27:40.000Z While the [Farm Innovators 4250 Pro Series Circulated Air Incubator](https://www.allenandemily.com/review-farm-innovators-4250-pro-series-circulated-air-incubator-with-automatic-egg-turner/) was the first incubator we ever bought, we received a Harris Farms Nurture Right 360° Egg Incubator as a gift, along with nearly 60 eggs, to incubate between the two. At a price of around $150 (it’s been as low as $120), and a 22 egg capacity, this is a great (and spoiler alert: currently my favorite) small scale, hobby incubator. First and foremost, what sets this unit apart from many other incubators is the visibility inside the unit. It is so much fun being able to watch your eggs, from all angles, getting their first pip, cracking, then fully hatching. It’s also really easy to clean with only four major parts — a top half, a bottom half, a plastic egg turner, and a plastic platform the eggs sit on. Usually having multiple incubators going at once, one of the things I *really* appreciate about this unit is that it only uses a single power outlet. Unlike other incubators that have separate power cords for the egg turner and the heating element, the egg turner plugs into the top half which then has a single cord to power everything. Speaking of the egg turner, if you forget to disconnect the power, it automatically turns off with 3 days left on the counter. It’s still advisable to remove the turner from inside the unit before your eggs start to hatch. Lastly, with both an “A” and a “B” reservoir with fill holes outside the unit, it’s incredibly easy to increase humidity without taking the top off and letting heat escape. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/138648_image2768-format-original.jpg) I really only have two complaints about this unit, both of which are minor. First, the built-in candler is nearly unusable. The top moulding that the candler is built into is white plastic. Because of this, when the candler is turned-on, light dissipates throughout the entire top of the unit rather than being directed entirely at the egg. I feel that having another candler solution is a requirement. Second, the top half of the unit has these small notches that must line up perfectly with notches on the bottom half in order to make a good seal. This is both a good and bad design choice. On one hand, the seal allows the unit to maintain heat and humidity really well. On the other, with such a small vent on top of the unit, it’s hard to decrease humidity if it happens to get too high without removing the top half of the unit momentarily. Again, this is a minor complaint and as long as you increase humidity slowly or double check the alignment before walking away, you won’t be surprised by unexpected heat or humidity loss. In summary, this is hands down my favorite incubator at the time of writing and the one I will continue buying as I need to expand — at least until we get to the stage of needing serious cabinet incubators. We’ve had great success with ours so far and the best part is [watching all our chicks hatch with full visibility](https://www.instagram.com/reel/CdlCjarAR94?ref=allenandemily.com). --- Pros - Hatching visibility is awesome! - Automatic egg turner - Automatically stops turning eggs with 3 days left - Only uses one power outlet - Easy to add water - Tight seal maintains heat and humidity - Price is comparable to units with similar features Cons - Hard to decrease humidity with such a small opening - Built-in egg candler is bad - Have to be careful with seating the lid Note: This is not a sponsored review. This unit was gifted to us by family. ### Review: Farm Innovators 4250 Pro Series Circulated Air Incubator with Automatic Egg Turner URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/review-farm-innovators-4250-pro-series-circulated-air-incubator-with-automatic-egg-turner/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T00:40:23.000Z After a lot of online research, I landed on the Farm Innovators 4250 Pro Series Circulated Air Incubator with Automatic Egg Turner being our first incubator. We needed a large quantity incubator and wanted something low maintenance. Most reviews had this frequently listed in the top 5 best incubators for small-scale home or hobby farmers. For the most part we agree, but there are a few things the reviews didn’t mention that I wanted to share here. This is a review of the circulated air incubator model, which we prefer, but you can save some money (roughly $20-30) by getting the still air model, and even more money if you forego the automatic egg turner and opt to manually turn your eggs multiple times a day. It’s also worth noting that we do dry hatching for the first 18 days and recommend doing the same if your normal, ambient temperature can be maintained between 20-40%. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/image-asset-format-original.png) To start, I want to reiterate that this is a good incubator. It’s not my *favorite* incubator, but I don’t regret this purchase and would recommend it depending on someone’s specific needs and experience hatching eggs. It’s dead simple to get up and running. It factory defaults to 100 degree temperature, 21-day countdown, and (perhaps most importantly) the temperature and humidity was accurate right out of the box on the unit we purchased which is a huge relief, especially for first time and inexperienced hatchers. On top of that, given how the unit is constructed, it’s very easy to maintain the temperature and humidity even when you need to open it up for your day 4 and day 10 candling, then again on day 18 when you remove the automatic egg turner. You can even add additional water to increase the humidity without opening the lid — though it could have been implemented better. There is a red indicator light that turns on letting you easily see when the unit is heating up. It is also covered in a plastic outer shell that you can write and take notes on using a dry erase marker. Lastly, to round out the positives, it ships with an external LED candler. This is perfect for egg hatching newbies and better than other candling implementations on other units. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/91ltezbbohl-_ac_sl1500_-format-original.jpg) Now for the negatives. Most of these are things I never came across in other reviews that can help others as they figure out what works best for them. Some of these aren’t functional negatives, just things that have been implemented better on different incubators. First off, unlike other incubators that have automatic egg turners, this unit takes up two power outlets — one for the egg turner and one for the temperature unit. While this unit does allow you to fill it with water to raise the humidity, the positioning of the fill holes is awkward. They are located too low on the unit and are a straight shot into the unit. This means you need to use something like a turkey baster to fill it, basically blasting water into it, not carefully filling it up, and it’s difficult to determine how full the water reservoir is without any external indicator. The unit also has small holes on the bottom (I didn’t know this before filling it with water), and once I was done hatching and went to clean the unit, the water inside swished around and came out of those holes. This incubator can hold up to 41 eggs, which is great! However, I don’t recommend actually filling it with 41 eggs. Once the chicks begin to hatch, it gets really crowded, really fast. Lastly, one of the most exciting parts of hatching chicks is watching the process. This unit has a small viewing window, making it difficult to see everything inside from one angle, and we found that the window fogged and built up condensation at higher humidity. This is concerning because you don’t want water dropping onto the eggs. To wrap up, this is a great unit for new or amateur hatchers, with a few minor design flaws, at a good price, with all the basic features you need to have a successful hatch. While not my favorite small scale, hobby incubator, I would still recommend it. --- Pros - Out of the box temperature and humidity was accurate - Can hold a LOT of eggs — 41 to be exact - Automatic Egg Turner - Thick styrofoam maintains temperature - Easy to clean - Circulates air (personal preference) - Ships with candler - Can add water without opening lid - Build-in hygrometer - Red indicator light when heat is operating - Plastic outer shell can be written on with dry erase marker - Good price to egg quantity ($130-150) - Less expensive models with fewer features are also available Cons - Uses two power outlets (1 for egg turner, 1 for temperature) - Awkward to add water - Overcrowding with a high hatch rate - Small viewing window - Window fogs up with higher humidity - Small vent holes on the bottom can lead to messes Note: This is not a sponsored review. This unit was purchased with our own money. ### Coping with Loss URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/coping-with-loss/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T18:42:43.000Z Any farmer will tell you that the loss of an animal is inevitable. I should note, the animals we raise are not for meat specifically but rather raised for the “product” they produce (wool, honey, eggs). In 2021, we lost about half of our Wyandotte flock plus several guinea hens to bobcat predation. It was only a matter of a day or two, and we were shocked that the guineas were even caught considering they can fly into trees and are typically quite wary of any changes or trespassers in the area. Our flocks have always been able to free range, but once we realized what was happening we were quick to put up some electric net fence. While the fence did stop that specific predation, it’s not the ideal solution. Something is *always* going to want to eat your flock, whether it’s a raccoon, fox, or other predator. And if you have a free range flock, you will almost certainly come across a situation where you will have to deal with predators sooner or later. Through our beekeeping experiences, we have had mixed success with overwintering our hives. A commercial beekeeper in our area said that if you can keep 50% of your hives alive through the winter, that is considered a huge success. This last winter was a particularly rough one in our area and, as a result, we lost all four of our hives. It’s so tough to crack open the boxes in the warmth of spring only to see thousands of dead honeybees. We have some new plans to try this winter to improve survival chances and will be providing updates in a year or so. We have eight hives this year, and hope to add some swarms if they come into our area like they have the past couple years. ![ Coco and Cali ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/image-asset-jpeg-format-original-7.jpg) Coco and Cali I learned the hard way how “fragile” sheep are compared to other farm critters. The lucky ones live out a full, happy life and pass on peacefully. Unfortunately, that isn’t often the case. I can speak to it personally, as I lost three of my beautiful Icelandic sheep over one single winter season. We got our first two sheep in the summer of 2020\. A friend contacted Allen to say that they had a ewe who was far too small to breed and even too small to bother butchering, and they wondered if we wanted to take her off their hands. They would also be sending another ewe lamb because sheep are social animals and don’t cope well with being solo. We picked up the two ewes and that quickly started my passion for sheep. Beans was the small ewe lamb, just a brown and white spotted little puffball. The other ewe lamb, Betty, was pure white and quite the majestic little lady. Our first year with them was one learning experience after another, and I was so excited to add two more ewe lambs from the same flock in summer 2021\. The two new babies, Coco and Calla Lily (Cali for short!) fit in quickly and it made my heart feel so full to look out and see all four grazing together. > “It’s a good lesson that prevention is key when it comes to sheep.” One day in December, just two days before Christmas, I went out for my daily sheep check and Cali was clearly unwell. One side of her face was covered in drool, her eye unfocused, and her head was drooping. After some googling and a call with my vet, we determined it was Listeriosis. Sadly, there isn’t really much you can do to treat a sheep with Listeriosis and she had passed on less than 24 hours from symptom onset. Not even a month later, Coco went through almost exactly the same sickness and death down to every detail. It was hard to go through because I had been meticulous with giving clean water daily and buying high-quality and properly processed hay, but the truth is that there were just too many risk factors and Listeria can come from the ground or air and there isn’t anything you can do to 100% remove the risk. It’s more likely to happen to young sheep, and chances are increased during colder conditions. In March of 2022, we experienced another great loss when Beans suddenly died. Once again it was a situation where the time between the onset of symptoms and death was less than 24 hours. The only thing I noticed was that she had a slight hitch in her breathing — nothing else and certainly not something that seemed serious. I thought she may have just eaten her grain too quickly and had a piece lodged that needed to move down. The following morning, I found her dead and after researching a bit and talking with my vet, it was clear that she had caught something in the CDT family of sicknesses. In all cases, my sheep didn’t show any symptoms until it was too late for treatment. It’s a good lesson that *prevention is key* when it comes to sheep. > “Honestly, a lot of it comes down to understanding that you just can’t control every single thing and to give your animals the best chance possible.” I take a small comfort knowing I gave those girls a better life than they would have otherwise had — premium food, daily attention and affection, and the best care I knew how to give. And sometimes you can do everything as right as you know how and it still won’t be enough. So how do I deal with the loss? Honestly, a lot of it comes down to understanding that you just can’t control every single thing and to give your animals the best chance possible. Things like practicing good hygiene, vaccinating for what is appropriate for your location, and knowing what to look out for with any behavior changes. Do what you can to build a good, supportive community that you can reach out to when things like this happen. Most are more than willing to share knowledge, provide a shoulder to cry on, and share the burden that comes from caring for animals. ### Results of our First Hatch of 2022! URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/our-first-hatch-of-2022-results/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T18:36:14.000Z Our first ever hatch has finally concluded! It was a fun experience, we learned a lot, and are already planning for the next hatch ([including Guineas](https://www.instagram.com/p/Cdt%5FIYorZHT/?ref=allenandemily.com))! We started off with 54 eggs — some Araucanas, Ameraucanas, Olive Eggers, and Black Copper Marans. I had personally picked these eggs up and drove them from Missouri to Wisconsin, an 8-hour drive. Some of the eggs were a week old by the time they got into the incubator. We candled the eggs on day 4 and again on day 10 to monitor progress. After the day 10 candling, we were left with 39 eggs of which 23 appeared to be developing as expected and the remaining 16 were darker, chocolate eggs that couldn’t be candled so we were unable to confirm if they were fertilized. With that many eggs, we incubated 41 of them in our Farm Innovators 4250 Pro Series Circulated Air Incubator with Automatic Egg Turner and the remaining eggs in our Harris Farms Nurture Right 360° Egg Incubator — each has its pros and cons which I’ll be looking to share in future posts. I chose to do a dry hatch, meaning, I added no additional humidity to the incubator for the first 18 days. The ambient humidity hovered around 25-30% during this time. On day 18, when lock down started, I raised the humidity and did my best to keep the humidity hovering around 75%. It seemed premature, and definitely caught us off guard, but on day 19 the eggs started hatching! Over the course of 4 days, 16 of the remaining eggs hatched into perfectly healthy little chicks! They are now happily getting acquainted to their brand new brooder box and we’re looking forward to sharing how they continue to developer the coming weeks and months. Stay tuned! ### Say Hello to Loki URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/say-hello-to-loki/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T18:35:12.000Z Continuing our recent trend of names based on Norse mythology, Emily landed on the name Loki for our newest ram lamb. The ram we got just a couple of weeks ago was given the name Odin in hopes that he will become the breeding ram on the farm and the “all father” of future lambs. How did we land on Loki for this little guy? We were originally planning to sell or butcher any additional rams this year but couldn’t resist keeping this one once we landed eyes on him. He’s also special to us having been our first lamb born directly on the farm. Since we’re going to keep him, and don’t intend to breed him, he will become a wether ram. In Norse mythology, Loki was known as a shapeshifter. Since this lamb will also be shifting shapes, in the loosest of definitions, we thought the name was fitting. The cleverness runs deep on this farm! ### Saturday Surprise! URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/saturday-surprise/ Last updated: 2026-01-10T18:23:21.000Z We couldn’t have picked a better way to start our Saturday or our new website! After we both asked each other “Have you seen Maple yet?” a *slight* amount of panic and fear began to sink in. We’ve had a recent streak of bad luck in which not seeing one of our animals first thing in the morning, means something bad had happened overnight. Not today! Anytime we approach our pasture, our sheep immediately come running out to us. We were instantly greeted by Betty, Mara, and Odin. Maple was hesitant to leave the building. As we began to approach, she finally came running towards us. Nothing seemed unusual otherwise. Then she turned and started running ahead of us back to the building instead of fighting for the treats Emily was carrying. That’s when we saw it, signs that she had her baby! After not having shown any of the traditional signs that she was about to give birth in the days preceding, this came as a shock! Unfortunately, the panic didn't stop as we approached the building. It was clear something had happened last night; blood on the hay and on Maple. Still though, even after circling their building, there were no signs of a living lamb. Then, Emily looked behind the hay feeder and there *he* was, our newest little ram! ![ Maple and her new ram lamb! ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/39/0c/390ca253-0583-4d59-84e9-6359e8f88bb9/content/images/2026/01/image-asset-jpeg-format-original-10.jpg) Maple and her new ram lamb! We’re so proud of Maple for having a problem-free, unassisted, natural birth. She’s also being a fantastic mother — feeding the baby and ensuring he is licked clean. He came a little unexpected so we haven’t finalized a name as of the time of this posting, but we’re looking forward to sharing more about the new addition to our flock in the coming days, weeks, and (fingers crossed) years! ### Review: Avian-X Turkey Decoys URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/review-avian-x-turkey-decoys/ Last updated: 2026-01-12T00:14:28.000Z Avian-X is a company that specializes in realistic goose, duck, and turkey decoys. From their website: > Our goal is for every decoy to look just as real as the birds flying overhead. ## The Positives When it comes to their turkey decoys, I have owned three of them: the LCD Lookout Hen, the LCD Strutter, and the LCD Quarter-Strut Jake. LCD stands for Lifelike Collapsible Decoy. Not only are they some of the most realistic looking decoys on the market, they’re portable and very durable. As a first hand testament to their durability, and lifelike quality, I have had hens attempt to beat up my LCD Lookout Hen on multiple occasions without any sign of wear and tear on the decoy. This includes multiple hens jumping on the decoy and trying to spur it, even knocking it off its collapsible carbon stake, and beating it up while laying on the ground. ![](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1585018688058-WCWL93K4KF0UH1H8CU7I/image-asset.jpeg) Avian-X also makes an HDR Series of turkey decoys. HDR stands for Heavy-Duty Realism. I don’t have any field experience with the HDR series. They are slightly more realistic than the LCD Series — like with the turkey’s legs. They also include interchangeable heads to change the decoys posture from aggressive to passive (or breeder, if it’s the hen decoy). In both the LCD Series and the HDR Series, the paint job on the decoys are so lifelike, the feathers reflect light and shimmer like a real turkey feather. Due to them being made of a heavier “PVC dura-rubber” product, they tend to move a little more realistic, moving slowly left and right, when placed on their stake in the field. I’ve seen decoys spin in circles unrealistically fast when the smallest gust of wind comes through, but not with these decoys. Both Series of decoys are approximately 15% smaller than an actual turkey. This may seem like a knock against their realism but I think you’ll find this works in their advantage. This will bring turkeys in closer while they try to assert their dominance over the smaller competition. ## The Negatives While I can’t recommend the Avian-X line of turkey decoys highly enough (they truly are my favorite decoys) there are a few negatives that you should consider. First off, it’s a premium product. That means you’ll pay a premium price. There are a number of other turkey decoys on the market that range anywhere from $20 to $40\. You can sometimes catch one of the LCD Series of decoys on sale in the $65 range each. Otherwise they can be priced in the upper $80 range. You can also find a set that includes a hen and jake for around $135\. If you can only get one, I strongly recommend the lookout hen. The HDR Series of decoys are even more expensive. The Tom and the Jake decoys each have a synthetic beard. This is definitely a nice touch as it adds to the realism and the beards are short to once again appear as a non-dominant turkey. The only problem with the beard is it can sometimes get mashed while traveling and ends up sticking in an unrealistic direction. You can get it to return to a natural pose but not without some time and manipulation. I also don’t like the tail fan on the Tom. However, the tail fan is not without some redeeming qualities. For example, it clips into the decoy so you can always replace it with a more realistic fan. The other nice benefit is the tail fan is collapsible and can easily be tucked away for travel. ![](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1585018470088-P5RA8JCXJZCLQSJAK5OU/image-asset.png) Lastly, one of the main selling points of the LCD Series is its ability to collapse. However, I don’t recommend taking it out to the field in its collapsed state. I recommend taking it out fully formed so you don’t run into a situation where you need to get your decoy set up quickly and risk it not completely inflating or creating unnecessary noise while you try to get it situated. This of course does make portability a challenge. The decoys do come with their own carrying bag but it can be near impossible to carry more than one of them, along with your shotgun. ## Closing Thoughts There’s plenty of evidence showing that an ultra-realistic decoy, like one from Avian-X, isn’t required in order to have a successful hunt. There are decoys available that are a flat 2D image printed on cardboard that will work and in some cases just a call is all you need. However, for me, I will opt to spend a little more money and get a more realistic decoy to eliminate as many variables as possible out in the field. The last thing I want is for a fired up Tom to come in, hesitate, and second guess coming in closer because something looks “off” on the decoy he spotted. As Avian-X says “at the end of the day, it isn’t our competition we’re trying to beat. It’s the birds themselves.” One last validation is they are an official decoy of the NWTF. --- This is not a sponsored post. All thoughts and opinions are based off of having spent my own money to use these products. ### Reflecting On My 2019 Turkey Season URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/reflecting-on-my-2019-turkey-season/ Last updated: 2026-01-12T00:10:50.000Z My 2019 spring turkey season included a series of firsts for me. - Saw my first bearded hen - First time I tagged two toms - First time hunting public land - First time hunting 3 different zones ### The First Tom I did a lot of hunting with my friend and hunting mentor, Doug. The day before the opener, he scouted a spot for us to set up. He had seen some activity in this spot earlier in the week so we made sure to show up extra early on opening day. Under the cover of dark we sneaked in and sat underneath a tree. As the sun started to shine, we began to lose hope as we heard a lot of activity far off in the distance. All of a sudden there was a loud scratching noise followed by the unquestionable sound of a turkey flying down out of the roost. A hen had been sitting 25 feet directly above our heads in the same tree we were sitting against. The heart rate immediately went up! The feeling of despair quickly turned to hope. We both thought, what better decoy to have than a live hen 15 yards in front of us. We waited and waited but a tom never came for the hen. We continued to hear quite a bit of activity all around us and eventually went searching for it. And so began the next 3-4 days of hunting. Hearing sounds in the distance but never able to close the gap. We saw a few hens, even a few jakes, but never a tom. I spent the last few days of the first week hunting the same woods alone. One morning, I finally pinpointed a tom that was fired up. I couldn’t get him to come closer so I figured, I would close the gap. I jogged about half a mile, shotgun in one hand, decoy in the other. As I got closer to where I thought he was, he belted out a loud gobble, the kind you can feel reverberate through your body. I immediately dropped where I was and here he came out strutting and gobbling 30 yards away. And there he stayed, 30 yards away through thick cover - circling me and, in my mind, mocking me. An opportunity at a shot never presented but the one thing I learned was where this tom was looking for a mate, right in the thick of a red pine stand. The next morning, which happened to be the last day of Season A, I approached that red pine stand from another direction. One that didn’t put thick cover between me and the pines. As I got out of my truck, I heard him gobble a number of times before I even closed my door. I *knew* this was the day it was going to happen. I quietly sneaked in, set up a decoy, and within 15 minutes here comes the same tom, all fired up, drumming and spitting. Sure enough a few minutes and one 3-inch #5 shell later, my first tom on public land and of 2019 was on the ground. ![My decoy on the right, the expired tom to the left. This was my view after taking my shot.](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1584584278838-S965QT8NSQS6R19XRTN9/image-asset.jpeg) My decoy on the right, the expired tom to the left. This was my view after taking my shot. ### The Bearded Hen I didn’t have a tag for Season B so I had to anxiously wait for Season C. I spent Season C hunting two different zones with Doug. We saw plenty of toms but never in a situation that presented a shot. During this season, I saw two things I had never seen before. First, I saw a bearded hen. As Doug and I sat in a blind we saw this turkey come out into the field in front of us. It was immediately identified as a hen. If you hunt turkeys long enough, you can quickly identify a hen by some certain telltale signs. The size of the body, the color of the head, and even the color of its feathers all indicated we were looking at a hen. So we went back to relaxing. As it started to circle away from the blind, Doug and I kind of looked at each other because we weren’t sure of what we were seeing. Doug scoped the bird to double check and sure enough, it was a bearded hen. ### Another First Later in the season, we started hunting some public land that neither one of us had hunted before. We spent a lot of time looking at maps and found a spot that we thought would present a great opportunity. As we were driving up, there was a tom in the middle of the road actively mating with a hen as two other hens scrambled around. We drove straight at them to break it up. The tom took off, flying ahead of us and to the left. The hens ran into the woods to the right. Doug and I thought this couldn’t have worked out any better. We’d get out, set up directly between the tom with a hen decoy. Using some hen yelps, the tom would come right to us. That day was just not our day. We heard some gobbling but nothing ever came back to that area. We spent the next few days running around the same area. We always heard turkeys close by but never got eyes on one. We both learned a lot during Season C, and I saw two things I had never seen before (a bearded hen and a tom actively mating a hen), but filling a tag just wasn’t in the cards. ### The Second Tom Season D came around and I was back to solo hunting in the same woods that I got my previous tom. I scouted out some spots and immediately knew I was on the right path to a successful season. One of my days was spent having two hens circle my decoy for 45 minutes just 10 yards in front of me. The next day, I asked Doug to come along and call for me. I got to the spot first and once again, before I even closed the door to my truck, I heard the turkey I wanted to pursue. As Doug pulled up and opened the door I said “Be quiet! I just heard the bird I’m going to kill.” From my truck he sounded about 200 yards away. We sneaked in and I sat up about 15 yards in front of Doug and had my decoy another 20 yards ahead on a logging trail halfway between the peak of the hill and the base. Doug began calling and the tom just seemed to be hung up on something 100 yards away. Doug mimicked a fly down followed by some hen calls and all of a sudden boom! The tom had come running over, closing the distance in the matter of seconds, and began strutting at the peak of the trail. Ten seconds later, only 10 minutes into the hunt, my second tom was on the ground. It was still so early in the day that we packed up the decoy, I gave my gun to Doug, and we went to another spot looking for another tom. After getting set up and doing some calls, we heard a tom about half a mile away. I suggested we pack everything up, hop back in the truck, and get closer to the tom. I was sure I knew exactly where he was gobbling from. Unfortunately I was a little too accurate. We parked the truck, got out and started walking down a trail when once again, the unquestionable noise of a bird that should be too big to fly took off crashing through all the branches above, flying off never to be seen by us again. Although it wasn’t meant to be that day for Doug, he ended up tagging a really nice tom on his property later in the season. ![ The first tom. ](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1584586761645-8OXLDIYZA88D70RBAI1C/download.jpeg?format=750w) ![ The second tom. ](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1584586759731-7T8EKZXKQNCSECF42A0E/download+1.jpeg?format=750w) Tagging two toms during the spring season is something I’m incredibly proud of. In both cases, I *knew* it was going to happen. My scouting efforts and lessons from each and every day stacked up to tagging two toms. If you look at the total harvest numbers, only 18% of turkey hunters fill their tags in Wisconsin. I was lucky enough to fill two. ![](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1584327118790-F6J250G4G7QMYIRHR468/image-asset.png) I also learned that I prefer running after and closing the distance on toms a lot more than setting up and trying to call the tom to me. --- Let me know how your 2019 season went or what you’re most looking forward to for your 2020 season in the comments below. ### Review: DeerLab URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/review-deerlab/ Last updated: 2026-01-12T00:06:50.000Z [DeerLab](https://deerlab.com/?ref=allenandemily.com) is web-based, trail camera management software. By uploading your trail camera photos to DeerLab, you’ll get automated assistance with sorting and tagging your photos, including photo recognition on the types of animals caught on camera. DeerLab does all of this while also helping you create profiles on target bucks. ## Setup The first thing you do in DeerLab is create a “Property”. When you create the property, you set the timezone, and two quick filter settings — one to define daylight hours, the other to add quick filter tags. Quick filter tags are only useful if you are managing multiple properties. Setting your daylight hours will automatically filter your pictures into day vs night. After creating your property, you’ll set up a view of it using Google Maps and then define the names and locations of your trail cameras. It’s important to indicate the location of your cameras because as you import pictures, DeerLab can help you determine travel routes if it recognizes the same deer on multiple cameras. After you have your cameras set up, you’re ready to begin importing! I don’t want to get into the weeds on importing and tagging photos. After all, it really just comes down to personal preference. However, in addition to coming up with a unique tag for each of your bucks, like a nickname or unique descriptor, you should consider standardizing on a handful of “categorization” tags. For example, tag all of your 8-point bucks with a certain tag, or all of your 2 1/2 year old or younger bucks with a specific tag. This way, as you build out your photo library, you can quickly find your mature 8-point bucks all in one search. My favorite thing about tagging in DeerLab is how it helps you build profiles on specific bucks. Here is an example of a 10-pointer that made it on my hit list last season. ![Screen+Shot+2020-03-10+at+9.38.14+PM.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583894704422-HWBOIDREEK423JQ71LUD/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-03-10%2Bat%2B9.38.14%2BPM.jpg?format=1500w) ![Screen+Shot+2020-03-10+at+9.38.22+PM.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583894788624-EMR3UP6INZEHOVBXZ331/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-03-10%2Bat%2B9.38.22%2BPM.jpg?format=1500w) ![Screen%2BShot%2B2020-03-10%2Bat%2B9.38.31%2BPM.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583979721556-MWFH3IU4036SAZGUX3PI/Screen%252BShot%252B2020-03-10%252Bat%252B9.38.31%252BPM.jpg?format=1500w) ![Screen+Shot+2020-03-10+at+9.38.40+PM.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583894969115-3SWA0A02YJ9I69OXWYFH/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-03-10%2Bat%2B9.38.40%2BPM.jpg?format=1500w) ![Screen+Shot+2020-03-10+at+9.38.14+PM.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583894704422-HWBOIDREEK423JQ71LUD/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-03-10%2Bat%2B9.38.14%2BPM.jpg) ![Screen+Shot+2020-03-10+at+9.38.50+PM.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583894903976-V3IJUVR4JZBM4WOREJT5/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-03-10%2Bat%2B9.38.50%2BPM.jpg?format=1500w) ![Screen+Shot+2020-03-10+at+9.38.22+PM.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583894788624-EMR3UP6INZEHOVBXZ331/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-03-10%2Bat%2B9.38.22%2BPM.jpg) ![Screen%2BShot%2B2020-03-10%2Bat%2B9.38.31%2BPM.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583979721556-MWFH3IU4036SAZGUX3PI/Screen%252BShot%252B2020-03-10%252Bat%252B9.38.31%252BPM.jpg) ![Screen+Shot+2020-03-10+at+9.38.40+PM.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583894969115-3SWA0A02YJ9I69OXWYFH/Screen%2BShot%2B2020-03-10%2Bat%2B9.38.40%2BPM.jpg) ## Pricing & Flexible Plans DeerLab has a number of flexible plans based on your needs. This to me is one of its major negatives. In a world of subscription services, you have to weigh wether or not the monthly or yearly plan is worth the value DeerLab adds. For example, at the time of writing this, their cheapest plan is $7/month if you pay for the whole year in advance. For $7/month you can get services like Disney+, Apple Arcade, Hulu, etc. The best part about their plans is they are incredibly flexible. You can adjust up and down as your needs change. ![Pricing plans as of March 20, 2020.](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583893459144-5VYHKRN12XD8KA0W4KIS/image-asset.png) Pricing plans as of March 20, 2020. ## Additional Settings DeerLab is incredibly easy to use and can be tailored to your exact needs. The only other Settings you need to configure are related to metric conversions. Changing your Temperature settings from Fahrenheit to Celsius, Windspeed from miles-per-hour to kilometers-per-hour, and Barometric Pressure from inches of mercury to millibars. One of my favorite features is the ability to correct timestamps on photos in bulk. I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve changed batteries on a trail camera only to have the dates revert back to January 1, 2018 or forgotten to adjust for Daylight Savings Time. ## My Thoughts DeerLab is a great tool if you don’t already have a trail camera management process or software. A number of trail camera manufacturers have their own management software. While I’m not familiar with what exists on the Windows side of things outside of the vendor software, for macOS users, Photos.app provides some automated capabilities for sorting and managing your trail camera photos. DeerLab’s differentiator is how it automatically pulls in weather information and helps build profiles on your target bucks. It’s up to you to determine how valuable this information and reporting is to you. I do find it a little on the expensive side if you are a single, small property owner with only a handful of cameras even at the Fawn level. If you manage multiple properties, either for yourself, clients, or family, this is a great tool. You can always wait to see if a Black Friday deal comes along which can help reduce the price to a range where it makes more sense for the smaller property owner. You can get started with a free trial of DeerLab at [https://deerlab.com/](https://deerlab.com/?ref=allenandemily.com) (no credit card required). While I haven’t personally used it yet, I would encourage you to also check out [Hunt Perfect](https://www.huntperfect.io/?ref=allenandemily.com). They offer a free trial and only have a single, unlimited plan that costs $20/year. The one concern I have for both DeerLab and Hunt Perfect is they don’t seem to have an active community or development. At the time of writing this, DeerLab hasn’t provided a product update since 2017, Hunt Perfect since 2018\. I’m not convinced these types of products need to have more frequent updates, but it does add some concern on the lack of innovation or future product support. --- This is not a sponsored post. All thoughts and opinions are based off of having spent my own money to use this product. ### Reflecting On My 2019 Deer Season URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/reflecting-on-my-2019-deer-season/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T23:56:23.000Z I’ve always found it helpful to take some time to reflect on my previous year’s goals, accomplishments, and failures. I don’t like to dwell on it, but rather use it as a platform to set the upcoming years goals and try to learn from last years mistakes. I never think of the deer season as the time limited to when it’s legal to harvest a deer with either a bow or gun. Successful deer hunting is a year-long pursuit. Check out my “A Year in Deer” series of blog posts to see what I mean! ## Food Plots ![Eagle Seed Forage Soybeans 1 month growth](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1584671856199-K154SQREHSUQNUCTRO88/image-asset.jpeg) Eagle Seed Forage Soybeans 1 month growth Last year was a **really** wet spring where I live and hunt. I wasn’t able to start planting my food plots until late May and into early June. I also ran into multiple tractor problems which further delayed when I was able to plant and impacted how poorly my food plots turned out. I was at least able to double the size of my soybean food plot to about an acre in size. Along with the larger soybean food plot came a larger dual-perimeter fencing setup. I became a strong believer in dual-perimeter fences after [seeing their effectiveness ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgrUbBGGhAw&ref=allenandemily.com)the last two seasons. I chose to set up a dual-perimeter fence because I planted a more expensive brand of soybeans ([Eagle Seed Forage Soybeans](https://www.eagleseed.com/forage-soybeans.html?ref=allenandemily.com)) and wanted to maximize the potential of my investment. It was amazing to see soybeans planted on the outside of the fence were eaten down all the way to the ground while the ones on the inside grew 4-5 feet tall with 50+ pods on each plant. In another food plot, I made my first attempt at planting half an acre of cowpeas. I’ll definitely give them another shot in the future, but they failed to take off in 2019\. Not only did I start planting them too late (because of the tractor problems), but I wasn’t able to do the level of ground preparation and aggressive weed control that would have been needed to allow the cowpeas to thrive. Ultimately I should have sacrificed this summer food plot and prepared it solely as a fall or cool-season food plot. I like to plant corn on my property. Where I hunt, standing corn is king when it comes to late November and December deer hunting. All of the large ag fields are harvested by then and there is a high potential for the ground to be covered in snow. This makes standing corn an easy target for deer. It also doesn’t hurt that corn is a carbohydrate, which is an easy source of energy for deer, especially after going through the rut. You should only be planting corn for this specific reason. A food plot of corn will never compete with the fields planted by farmers whose livelihood depends on getting the most out of every acre. If you live in the northern half of the US where ag fields are plentiful, all of your food plots should be focused on being productive and at their maximum potential during October through January. I also strategically place my one corn food plot to provide cover from people spotlighting and to cover my approach to the south side of my property. Needless to say, even though I had an incredibly short maturity corn, it was planted too late. Also, for the first time ever I had a family of Sandhill cranes nest on my property and raise two babies which was a privilege to witness, although they did eat a lot of the corn seed. I’ve tried making sunflowers work for two years in a row now. Deer love eating young sunflowers, songbirds love mature sunflowers, and they just look nice. Planted strategically, they make for great screening. The sunflowers last year only grew about 2 feet tall when they should have been in the 6-8 foot range. Weed competition was an issue, as well as over-saturated fields. I also have a rotation of clover planted. I like to plant clover in strips next to the woods line or before getting into taller food plots to create food attraction that is resilient to a lot of weather conditions. Most importantly I plant clover in these areas to create another “edge”. As we’ll talk about throughout this site, edges create movement. Most of my clover plantings were only 2 years old this last season and were looking great. I did spray them with Clethodim to remove some of the unwanted grasses and weeds and it really helped the clover take off. It also helps to mow the clover once the flowers start to turn black. This helps reseed the plot and clover typically grows faster than other grasses so the cut and regrowth can suffocate out other undesirable plants in your foot plot. I had two smaller clover plots that were coming up on 4 years old. These didn’t provide much value so I decided to disc them over and plant some brassicas. This was definitely a blessing and a curse. I wanted to get some tillage radishes growing because they usually feed deer twice if done right — once when they eat the tops and the second time when food becomes a little more scare and they dig up the taproots. The tillage radish also provides slow release fertilizer as they decompose the following year. The brassicas had a hard time maturing because they were an absolute magnet for the deer. Right before bow season, as the brassica tops were beginning to yellow, I spread Urea on the plots and within a few days, they almost doubled in size and turned a vibrant green. They didn’t last much longer after that. ## Mock Scrapes, Stands, and Cameras This last year was the first time I made mock scrapes utilizing vertical licking branches. I am a total believer in this set up. These mock scrapes were hammered all season by almost every deer that walked by them, including the biggest deer I had on the property. This is also the first year I didn’t use any synthetic scents around my mock scrapes or really anywhere in the woods. I’ll write more about mock scrapes with vertical licking branches and scents in a future post. ![](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1584673458017-RACTMDGBB9KC357R0EZ4/image-asset.png) Last season I also hung that most stands I’ve ever had on my property—a mix of ladder stands and hanging stands. Although I had more stands that I’ve ever had on my property, there were a few stands I only ever sat in once or twice at most. Finally, this past season was the best year of trail cameras pictures I’ve ever had on my property. I attribute this to the years of habitat improvement work. I also had the privilege of buying and setting up enough cameras to cover even more of my property, which helped inform me even more about the deer around my property. ## Bow Season 2019 was my shortest bow season so far. It lasted about 4 hours. Opening day was a bit on the warm side but the wind direction was favorable for the plan I had in mind. I wanted to set up on my thriving soybean food plot. I had just dropped the dual-perimeter fence 5 days prior and immediately saw evidence that deer had discovered the soybeans. I knew they’d bit hitting the plot around 4PM given the information I observed from my trail cameras. I decided to head out to my stand at 2PM. Like clockwork, the deer started to ***pour*** into the field around 4PM. Once the first doe entered the plot, over 30 more deer came out of the woods. It was amazing to see my plan come together perfectly. Moments later, a nice 8-pointer stepped out at 30 yards. With a perfectly placed, broadside, double-lung shot, I had venison on the ground 60 yards away and my bow season was over. ## Gun Season Since I had to sit out the rest of bow season, I was crawling up the walls in anticipation of gun season. On opening day I pulled my first ever sunrise to sunset hunt in a stand without ever coming down. I once again saw a LOT of deer but I wanted to be selective since I took a buck during bow season. I was able to watch another nice 8 pointer, definitely a shooter, bed down with a small group of does for over 2 hours. Unfortunately it was about 200 yards away and never presented a shot. ![Under normal circumstances this should be a clear path for about 200 yards.](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1584672058967-DT6T9OH19GSEWUB6DGEA/image-asset.jpeg) Under normal circumstances this should be a clear path for about 200 yards. The rest of the gun season was tough. The timing of the Wisconsin gun season was really late in November which meant most bucks were on lockdown or not as active as they were resting from the rut. On top of that, a few days into the gun season, the weather turned for the worse. It had snowed, rained, and froze so much and so quickly that the normal trails in the woods were completely impassable due to trees having bent over, snapped, or otherwise fallen. There were just a lot of things that weren’t favorable for the gun season. After opening weekend, I didn’t see more than a handful of deer the rest of the gun season. The regular gun season then rolls into a muzzleloader-only season which resulted in the same lack of activity. I probably saw more deer on the opening day of bow season than I did all of the gun and muzzleloader seasons. I did not harvest a buck during the gun season. In Wisconsin, we have a 4 day, antlerless-only season, that immediately follows the muzzleloader season. It’s the one season you hope you don’t have to hunt, because it can be unbearably cold, but it’s also the one season where you can make the most impact on your local deer herd. It’s also the best possible time to harvest a doe—more on that in a future post. Having a doe management plan is important to help keep the herd healthy by balancing the size of the herd with the amount of available food. It also helps balance the doe-to-buck ratio. When you harvest a doe, you might actually be removing 2 or even 3 deer—a high percentage of mature does give birth to twins! Harvesting a doe also impacts changes to the matriarch. I usually try to target the largest and oldest doe because they’re usually the wisest . Not only do I get more venison but there’s a reason they’ve gotten to their age. They’ve learned to avoid hunters, cars, predators, etc. These are usually the does that are the first to find your stands, smell your scent, and alert all the surrounding deer. Based on the information I gathered from trail cameras and observations during the summer, I set a goal to harvest at least 2 does. I asked a friend to come over a hunt my property with me, and I had a really good idea of where does were most likely to be bedding. We came up with a plan to have one of us sit on the north side of the property, which was quick and easy to get to. Meanwhile, the other person would circle all the way around and approach another stand from the south that was positioned closer to the bedding area. Circling all the way around would take about 20 minutes to get to the stand. Before I even got to my stand, a gun shot had already gone off. I immediately stopped in my tracks to see what would happen and a deer came up within 40 yards looking back to where the shot came from, completely oblivious to me standing there. A moment later I took my shot and just like that, within 30 minutes, we had two does down. Once again a plan was perfectly executed. It was a great way to finish the year and was a hunt I’ll never forget. I also got a chest freezer full of venison! --- What were some of your highlights and lowlights from last season? Share them in the comments below! ### My Turkey Gun Setup URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/my-turkey-gun-setup/ Last updated: 2026-01-12T00:01:13.000Z The first turkey I ever shot was with a 12 gauge Remington Model 870 Wingmaster. It’s an absolutely beautiful gun but it is not ideal for turkey hunting in a number of ways. First, it has an American walnut stock and the receiver and barrel are a highly-polished blued steel. When you’re turkey hunting, you might find yourself in some questionable weather or terrain, and the highly polished steel will look unnatural to a turkey. Remember they have 3 times better eyesight than us. The second knock against the Wingmaster is the length of the barrel — coming in either 26” or 28”. The barrel also has a bead sight and requires modification if you want to add a scope, something I don’t have the courage to do to such a beautiful gun. Finally, it’s a traditional grip stock. This is not to say you can’t turkey hunt with one, or that it’s not a great gun. I have learned though there are better, and cheaper, solutions available. ![Remington 870 Wingmaster](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1585881550448-CFX54IWHIT3L55FFJMRH/image-asset.jpeg) Remington 870 Wingmaster My turkey gun of choice is the 12 gauge Remington Model 870 SPS Super Magnum Turkey/Predator. This gun has a remarkable number of positive traits, especially when applied to turkey hunting. The gun comes in full camo, with a 20” barrel, pistol grip stock, an integrated choke, and a TruGlo® red/green selectable illuminated sight. Let’s start with the barrel. I can’t emphasize enough how much better it is to turkey hunt with a short barrel. You can more easily navigate the gun through brush and it minimizes your overall silhouette. Keep in mind you must turkey hunt with a choke and you have to test the pattern of the choke with the specific ammo you are going to use before you start hunting. The choke that comes with the gun is fine. It adds another inch or so to the length of your gun. I found a more suitable choke for my needs when paired with the type of ammo I like using (HEVI-Shot Hevi-13). Speaking of ammo, the SPS Super Magnum means you can load 2 3/4”, 3”, or 3 1/2” shells. This may not be as important for turkey hunting but my preferred ammo setup is to have a #5 3” shell in the barrel followed by a #4 3 1/2” shell. That way if I miss my first shot and the turkey takes off running, I’ve got a more powerful, further reaching shell up next. Finally, I want to point out the importance of a pistol grip stock and illuminated sight. The pistol grip is not only more comfortable to grip, it gives you a whole other level of control over your gun. This is important when your target moves and your adrenaline is pumping. I also recommend the illuminated sight over a traditional crosshair scope. Both will work just fine, and it comes down to user preference, but I prefer the illuminated dot scope because you can switch from a red dot to a green dot depending on the time of the day and your surrounding environment. Just remember, you have to change the batteries with this type of scope. You also need to turn it on before your hunt, and off again when you’re done. I learned the hard way to never forget to turn it on before your hunt. As an added bonus, it also comes with a sling. This is especially useful when you need to carry a decoy or any other supplies out to your hunt. ![Remington 870 SPS Super Magnum Turkey/Predator](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1585881297960-F6815AVFAOLYHUE0GG45/image-asset.png) Remington 870 SPS Super Magnum Turkey/Predator ## Final Thoughts I can’t recommend highly enough picking yourself up a Remington Model 870 SPS Super Magnum Turkey/Predator shotgun. My one knock against it is it an expensive gun (MSRP: $746). If the price is a concern for you, my advice is to at least find a gun with as many of the same features as possible. There are different styles of pistol grips and you can find cheaper guns that come in all black instead of camo. A 3 1/2” shell capacity is also not a priority. You can even save some money going for a smaller gauge shotgun. You should prioritize length and grip. Everything else is secondary. ### Food Plots: Determinate vs Indeterminate Soybeans URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/food-plots-determinate-vs-indeterminate-soybeans/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T23:46:18.000Z Soybeans are a warm-season, annual legume and are one of the most marketed and divisive food plot foods. They can also be one of the best deer attractants and highest sources of protein for deer (upwards of 20-30%). That doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the right solution for every property, but in addition to figuring out the difference between all the brands and labels, you also need to decide if you want determinate (regular) or indeterminate (forage) soybeans. ## Growth Stages Before understanding determinate vs indeterminate soybeans, it’s important to understand the stages of soybean growth. After a 30-40 day vegetative stage of growth, soybeans enter their reproductive stage in which pod formation begins. | Reproductive Stages | | | | ------------------- | ------------------- | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | R1 | Beginning flowering | Plants have at least one flower on any node | | R2 | Full flowering | There is an open flower at one of the two uppermost nodes | | R3 | Beginning pod | Pods are 3/16 inch (5 mm) at one of the four uppermost nodes | | R4 | Full pod | Pods are 3/4 inch (2 cm) at one of the four uppermost nodes | | R5 | Beginning seed | Seed is 1/8 inch long (3 mm) long in the pod at one of the four uppermost nodes on the main stem | | R6 | Full seed | Pod containing a green seed that fills the pod capacity at one of the four uppermost nodes on the main stem | | R7 | Beginning maturity | One normal pod on the main stem has reached it's mature pod color | | R8 | Full maturity | 95% of the pods have reached their full mature color | Once flowering beings, it usually takes around 30 days to begin forming pods and another 40-50 days to hit maturity. This gives soybeans a full cycle of around 130 days, or just over 4 months, in perfect conditions. For more information on the various stages of soybean growth, I highly recommend [checking out this free resource from Purdue University](https://www.agry.purdue.edu/ext/soybean/Arrivals/10SoyDevt.pdf?ref=allenandemily.com). Determinate (regular) soybeans stop growing on the main stem as soon as they enter R1\. They will continue to develop leaves on branches but will not grow in height. This also means that if a deer comes by and eats the main stem after entering R1, the plant is likely going to fail to produce any significant forage or pods. Indeterminate (forage) soybeans on the other hand will continue to go through its vegetative and reproductive states until the first freeze. This means they’ll continue to produce forage and can grow upwards of 4-5 feet tall as long as they aren’t eaten down to the ground. If leaves or the main stem are eaten, they’ll split and continue to push more branches, leaves, and flowers as conditions allow. One final thing to note is soybeans being determinate or indeterminate doesn’t affect how palatable deer find soybeans. ## The Farmer’s Approach If you draw a horizontal line right through the United States, you’ll likely find that soybeans planted south of that line are determinate. Although there is a much longer growing period in the south, most farmers want to make sure their harvest happens before the heavy rains, storms, and hurricane season that hits in August. Determinate soybeans are a great choice since you know (within a small variance) exactly how long it will be between planting and harvesting. You’ll start to see a wider usage of indeterminate soybeans north of the horizontal line. The north has shorter growing seasons and farmers want to get the most out of what they can. In the north, some fields might not get planted until June and the season can end in August or go through October. The opposite can also happen where you can plant in early May and get growth through September. ## The Hunter’s Approach I believe that you shouldn’t go all-in with soybeans. They are a tough plant to grow and maintain, and they’re expensive when compared to other food plot alternatives. Due to their attractiveness to deer, the size of the field you would need before the deer eat them all the way down (and usually before prime hunting season) is prohibitively expensive. In addition to the expenses, as a hunter your food plot would be competing with manicured ag fields produced by farmers who do this for a living. I have previously planted soybeans in a small 3/4 acre plot protected by a dual zone fence. It worked great as a 1-2 week attractant when I removed the fence, but the deer herd completely decimated the plot in that time. This 1-2 week period also threw off any previously established patterns to other parts of the property. In my opinion, soybeans are best planted in a later summer mix with things like winter peas, rye, and brassicas. The goal would not to be produce pods but to produce young, green soybean leaves. Unless you have thousands of acres, it’s unrealistic to think your food plots are growing or otherwise influencing the local deer heard with soybeans. It’s also too expensive and risky to dedicate whole plots to soybeans. Think about it, if you had $100 for a food plot would you put well over 50% of that budget towards one food plot attractant like soybeans that will notlast until prime hunting season or would it be better to put 20% towards 4-5 different food plot seeds with varying levels or attractiveness at different periods that last the entire hunting season and even the late winter seasons when deer need food the most? This is how small land owners can influence the deer herd. If you decide to go with indeterminate soybeans, it really comes down to if you want them to be glyphosate-resistant (Roundup Ready) or not. If so, you’ll be looking at spending a little more and likely looking at Eagle Seed forage soybeans. Otherwise if you don’t need glyphosate-resistant soybeans, you can go with something like Loredo or Tyrone forage soybeans. In either case, the most effective indeterminate soybean food plot I ever planted was successful because [I implemented a dual-zone fence strategy](https://www.allenandemily.com/are-dual-perimeter-fences-a-legit-strategy/). Make sure to include that in your list of expenses too and make sure to set your expectations to have that food plot wiped out well before the rut. ### A Year in Deer: March URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/a-year-in-deer-march/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T23:51:18.000Z With March comes more sunshine and slowly increasing warmer temperatures. This is the last, and probably best, month to do some really invasive scouting. Not only is there likely still a little snow on the ground revealing trails and bedding areas, but anywhere the snow has melted will reveal a perfectly preserved copy of last season’s scrape activity. Pair all of this information with rub lines and you should be on the right track for a successful fall hunting season. March is also a great time to assess and plan your food plot strategies for the year. Every year I look up my property on Google Maps, print it out, and draw out my plans for the year — something I’ll share in a future post. You may even want to consider starting to purchase any seed, lime, fertilizer, or weed control chemicals at this time. If you have any existing clover plots that could use a good boost, now is the perfect time to do some frost seeding if you have some exposed, or lightly snow-covered ground. If the ground is dry and solid enough on your property, you can begin planning on applying any pre-emergent chemicals towards the end of the month. Finally, March is about the last month I would personally consider doing any timber stand improvement. ## Summary 1. Scout, scout, scout 2. Plan your food plots 3. Frost seed where needed 4. Wrap up any Timber Stand Improvement ### Are Dual-Perimeter Fences a Legit Strategy? URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/are-dual-perimeter-fences-a-legit-strategy/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T23:36:39.000Z A dual-perimeter fence, sometimes referred to as a “hot-zone” fence, is the concept of putting two shorter, electrically-charged fences close together to protect whatever is inside the fence from deer. Most people believe you need something as tall as a 6-8 foot tall fence to prevent deer from jumping over and into whatever it is you’re trying to protect. The reality is, if you strategically place two shorter fences together, you’ll get the same, if not greater, protection. The reason this works is deer have poor depth perception. Have you ever been spotted by a deer and watched as it moved its head from side to side trying to make out what it is seeing? Deer do this to create depth perception and make a better “3D model” of what it’s seeing to help identify if you are a threat or not. With the two layers of fencing, you’ll be creating the illusion that there is so much distance between the two fences that the deer wouldn’t be able to make the jump all the way across or in between the fences. On top of that, because deer feel out everything with their nose first, if they touch the outermost layer of fence, they’ll receive a small shock on their sensitive (and wet!) nose. ## Off-The-Shelf vs DIY There are two ways to go about setting up a dual-perimeter fence and as long as you remember the rules of placement, it ultimately doesn’t matter which way you go. You can buy a commercially available fencing system. Non-Typical Wildlife Solutions makes a hot zone kit. They are expensive for what you get but you don’t need to worry about buying all the individual supplies. The other option is to put together a DIY dual-perimeter fence. This is what I’ll dive into. ![Image courtesy of GrowingDeer.tv Episode #498](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583286690469-7M83RX796H39SJLFYWWK/image-asset.png) Image courtesy of GrowingDeer.tv Episode #498 At the most basic level, you’re going to be creating two layers of fencing. These two layers need to be 3 feet apart. Your outermost fence needs to be made with electrical tape, not electrical wire, and set at around a foot a half high. You want to go with an electrical tape because it’s wider, and easier to see. Not only will deer be curious in wanting to nudge this with their nose, if they’re being chased or otherwise running near your fence, you want them to see it so they don’t crash into it. The second layer of fencing, again 3 feet away from your outermost layer, will contain two different heights of electrical tape. Set one at approximately 10-12 inches off the ground (1 foot) and the other at 2 feet off the ground. You can use electrical wire at this layer to save some money but I prefer going with tape just to give it more visibility. I’ve even gone with the higher visibility electrical tape and not charging it. Nine times out of ten, a deer will encounter the first layer, nudge it with its nose, and get a quick painless reminder to back away. When it comes to selecting fence posts, I tend to go with whatever is cheapest. You can get plastic or fiberglass fence posts that you can easily push in with your feet. These usually run you under $1 a piece and some of them come built with loops at the previously mentioned heights making this a super easy project. The other option is to use metal T-posts in combination with electric fence insulators. I went this route the first year I made a dual-perimeter fence because I had a bunch of T-posts laying around. However I quickly learned that the physical labor of pounding these into the ground, in conjunction with paying for and installing the insulators, dissuaded me from using these in subsequent fencing projects. The last thing you’ll need is some way to electrically charge the fence. There are a ton of different options and configurations for this but I chose to go with a solar powered electric fence charger with a built-in battery, specifically one made by Zareba, that I picked up from my local farm store. This allowed me to install my fence in a remote location with minimal on-going maintenance. ![image.jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1581219519665-LGERXJY0I4DAFYRAFJN0/image.jpg) ## Designing the layout of your fence When designing the layout of your fence, keep the following things in mind. First, make sure your fence is not right up against the woods line or tall grass. Even though the fence is electrically charged, it won’t stop a doe that is being chased by a buck from crashing right through it. Give the deer a chance to see it and avoid it. Next, consider making a gate at one end of the fence that you can easily drop or remove. This serves two purposes. One, it will give you an access point should you need to seed or spray your food plot. Second, you can use this fence as a pinch point. If you drop it a couple of days before season, or before favorable weather conditions, deer will discover the now easy and readily available food source and travel in where the fence has been removed. Combine this with a strategically placed stand or blind and the right wind direction, and you’ll have some easy hunting opportunities. Whenever you are designing anything on your property for the purposes of deer hunting, creating and manipulating movement should be your ultimate goal. Make sure you are mowing under and between the fences. The last thing you want to happen is to go through all this effort just to have something touching your fence, shorting the charge, and a deer nose it and not get any feedback. ## When to use a dual-perimeter fence Dual-perimeter fences are not for everyone and should only really be used for a few number of use cases. The leading example would be if you’ve spent money on a specific type of forage and you want to make sure it lasts until a certain point in the hunting season, this is a great way to improve those chances. Typically you’ll see examples of this online using some of the higher end soybeans—either to provide an attractive food plot for the bow season opener or the make sure there are bean pods available when all other green alternatives have gone away or are buried under snow. If this works for you, great! However, I would encourage you to get more out of your money by purchasing cheaper alternatives that provide food for a longer period of time. Trust me, small soybean food plots do not last long! ![Two days after removing a dual-perimeter fence.](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1583287393293-3VZP7JEZLDQ4FJKS8221/image-asset.jpeg) Two days after removing a dual-perimeter fence. ## Wrapping it all up To prove the legitimacy of this strategy, I’ll leave you with a short videoclip taken from one of my trail cameras showing the effectiveness of a dual-perimeter fence working on my property. Just remember to do as I say, not as I do. This plot failed early with overgrown weeds but the fence was still effective! Let me know if you have any questions about this strategy in the comments below. ### A Year in Deer: February URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/a-year-in-deer-february/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T23:50:24.000Z February is a great time to continue invasive scouting, especially if you have snow to help discover travel paths and bedding areas. We’re still far enough away from the next deer season that it’s okay to be disruptive and continue implementing your Timber Stand Improvement plans. If you live somewhere that has exposed soil, or even a thin layer of snow on the ground, you can start to think about frost seeding your cool-season annuals and perennials — things like oats, rye (grain NOT grass!), clover, chicory, and alfalfa to name a few. Frost seeding is the process of spreading seed on top of frozen ground to take advantage of the upcoming freeze-thaw cycles that comes with the spring season. This cycle results in great seed-to-soil contact. For frost seeding, just follow the recommended broadcast seeding rates typically found on the bag of seed. If you’re simply looking to bolster an existing plot that is thinning or has bare spots in it, you can cut the seeding rates in half. Now is also a good time to bring your trail cameras in and freshen them up. Yes modern trail cameras are more resilient than ever to weather and the elements, especially if you’ve installed a hood over the camera, but why risk shortening their lifespan to get pictures that don’t provide any real data to help with the next deer season. In fact, it can be hard to tell the difference between bucks and does for the next couple of months. This last round of pictures should at least reveal what survived the most recent deer season. So you can start getting excited what you might see next deer season — and they’ll be a year older! ## Summary 1. Continue doing invasive scouting 2. Timber Stand Improvement 3. Frost seeding 4. Refresh your trail cameras ### A Year in Deer: January URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/a-year-in-deer-january/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T23:47:22.000Z January is a great time to do some invasive scouting — going to areas you would normally avoid during the summer and autumn months. Yes you’re likely going to spook some deer while doing this, but right now is still a few months away from needing to minimize or avoid going into these areas to let things calm down. To aid with your scouting, wait until there’s some snow on the ground. You can use the snow to your advantage to see if deer are traveling where you believe they should be and near where you have your stands set up. Because of weather and other factors, the travel paths might be different now than what they will be when corn fields and food plots are thriving or acorns are dropping. However, you might find spots you previously weren’t aware of where deer are entering or exiting your property. ![](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1581208466837-R2QJWRD5MUPFAZ4CBM3C/image-asset.png) You’ll also want to be on the lookout for areas with melted snow in oval shapes, potentially with scat and urine around, and typically tucked away in areas with a lot of side cover — trees laying down, tall switch grass, etc. This means you’ve come across a bedding area. Who knows, as you scout these areas, you might even come across a shed antler or two. Finding a shed is exciting because it lets you know there is a good chance that deer will be around next year since it survived the most recent hunting season. In most states, trapping season is still active in January. As we’ll discuss in other posts, predator management is something you should implement in your hunting strategies to not only improve your deer herd, but also to improve other wildlife, like turkeys. I haven’t gotten into trapping myself but I have sat and called coyotes, albeit without much success. I’ll be sharing more about my experiences as they come up in the early months of the new year. Finally, assuming there isn’t too much snow on the ground where you live, January is a good time to consider timber stand improvement (TSI) by removing or hinge-cutting trees (more information on this in future blog posts). ## Summary 1. Invasive scouting 2. Predator management 3. Timber Stand Improvement ### Setting Hunting Goals URL: https://www.allenandemily.com/setting-hunting-goals/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T19:53:44.000Z This is one thing that *everyone* should think about before they start their hunting journey. Whether it’s going on your first ever hunt, scouting some new public land, planning out next year’s food plot, or hunting your family’s farm for the 10th season in a row, setting goals will help set the tone for your hunting successes. > Your goals should not simply be defined as the number of points, rack score, body weight, or age of a deer. There are a lot of physical demands when it comes to hunting — long walks, climbing, dragging your harvest up hills and through swamps — but it’s important to also develop and strengthen the mental demands hunting can have on you. Some of these mental demands, like patience waiting for the perfect shot or sitting perfectly still while a tom struts 60 yards away for 45 minutes, are only learned through experience. The type of mental tools I’m hoping to help sharpen are how to keep a positive mental outlook by setting realistic and measurable goals to find victories in everything you do and maintain positive momentum. All the small victories will lead to larger victories. My hope is you can use some of the insights laid out here as a guideline to setting your own goals, and more importantly, help adjust your mental approach to hunting. Your goals should not simply be defined by the number of points, rack score, body weight, or age of a deer. Success should be measured by setting and achieving goals that are specific to your experience level and crafted specifically for your situation (where you are hunting, what season you are hunting, etc.) As an example, when it comes to hunting whitetails, it’s easy to think about that perfect 160” 10-pointer walking out of the woods within 20 yards of your stand when you surround yourself with hunting shows, magazines, and YouTube channels showing this exact encounter week after week with seemingly little to no effort. You must remember though, their situation is not the same as yours. Not only are they creating content to make money — and what makes more money than showing the largest possible trophy — but where they are hunting, the amount of disposable income they can put towards hunting, and whether or not hunting is their full time job, are some of the factors you have to ignore or at least customize when setting your own goals. Sure, shooting that perfect 160” 10-point buck is an amazing feat that anyone should be proud of but is that a realistic goal for everybody? If you end up shooting that deer but then have to track it and leave it lay overnight only to find it in the morning half eaten by coyotes and unable to harvest any usable venison, is that a goal you would be proud of? Or is a better goal taking any mature buck that presents itself a perfect shooting opportunity and placing the perfect double lung shot, harvesting, and then later sharing venison with your family a better goal? Combining the perfect shot with a buck of that class would be best, but my point is there are many factors you should consider in setting your goals. One of the easiest approaches to setting goals is to keep the SMART criteria for setting goals in mind. SMART is an acronym for Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Realistic, and Timely. When I first started hunting, I got lost in the fantasy of the previously mentioned scenario. It wasn’t until I learned more about my land and the surrounding area that I realized I needed to set more realistic goals. Where I live and primarily hunt, there are many 10 acre parcels with multiple people hunting them during the deer season. That is a lot of hunting pressure. Without forming some kind of co-op with the neighboring properties and sharing common goals on age class structure, this means that a 3.5 year old deer is considered rare. Seeing one while out hunting would be even more rare and even more so for it to walk within 40 yards of my stand and provide a shooting opportunity. The reality is I’m likely not going to see a Boone and Crockett class buck without implementing a number of land improvement practices, only hunting extremely favorable conditions, and having a little bit of luck. Therefore, for my first couple of years on my property, I adjusted my expectations and focused my goals on good land and herd management strategies to increase the odds of that type of buck living on my property in the future. This also gave me time to focus on goals related to perfecting my shooting skills. ![My first buck from my property on the left, third buck on the right.](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5e339a610799707d67cfef07/1582951188834-PBC3TC7IMRIW4WMXSC0S/image-asset.jpeg) First harvested buck from the property on the left, third buck on the right. I would also encourage you to think of goals in sets of three: short, medium, and long-term. For example, today’s goal could be to hunt a particular stand and watch deer movement (short), this year’s goal would be to harvest a mature doe (medium), and next year’s goal would be to see more deer on your trail cameras (long). Goals should be fluid and always changing. Remember too that every action you take as a hunter should be with a purpose in mind. Attempt to learn something every time you walk in the woods or observe trail camera pictures, then take what you learn and adjust your goals. As a final reminder, your goals are specific to you and your situation. Nobody should be judging you when you share the results of a hunt or where you landed with your goals (assuming the hunt was legal, ethical, and fair chase). Harvesting any animal is difficult and we’re not all going to get a cover page trophy. If you are proud of hitting your goals and somebody has something negative to say, it might be time to find a different community of people to share your experiences with. Share that 6-point, 2.5 year old with pride if that’s what is appropriate and realistic for your property or experience level.